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HANDBOOK
TURNING.

THE

HANDBOOK OF TURNING;

CONTAINING INSTRUCTIONS IN

CONCENTRIC, ELLIPTIC, 8c ECCENTRIC TURNING ;

ALSO VARIOUS

plates Of Ci)ucit0, Coob, &: Snieittumentis ;

AND

DIRECTIONS FOR USING THE ECCENTRIC CUTTER, DRILL. VERTICAL

CUTTER, AND CIRCULAR REST;

WITH PATTERNS,

AND INSTRUCTIONS FOR WORKING THEM.

LONDON :
SAUNDERS & OTLEY, CONDUIT STREET.

1842.

13^-

THE EARL OF CRAVEN.

■ My Lord,

In offering this little Work to your

Lordship, I beg to acknowledge with gratitude the kind
manner in which you consented to my wish of dedi-
cating it to you ; and I feel confident that it cannot be
presented to the notice of the Public more favourably
than under the sanction of your name.

Allow me to subscribe myself,

Your Lordship's
Obliged and humble servant,

THE AUTHOR.

March, 1842.

CONTENTS

PAOK

Preface xi

History of the Lathe xvi

Arc patterns described 103

, how worked 105

, observations upon 106

Balls, Chinese 53

Balls, how turned Ill

Balls and hollow spheres 52

Black dye for iyory 49

Bleaching ivory 47

Boring collars 34

Boring tools 37

, how to use properly 37

pottle 82

138

... 91

, to make in wood

... 19

.ihapeandtues

... 78

. iu tooli

CONTENTS. Vll

PAGE

Eccentric cutter patterns ^ 65

chuck w 87

, how to use * 91

patterns ....... 92

cutter and chuck united 116

patterns worked with them 117

pillars 108

Elliptic machine 49

Flowers turned in ivory .54

Glue, to make 14

, to use .15

Goneometer 74

Gouge 8

Hand saw 13

Handles of tools 12

Holly used for ivory 40

Hook and eye, how to use 5

Impressions of turning patterns 115

Ivory preferable to wood 47

, how to polish 47

, proper tools for turning 11

, to cleanse from grease 48

, to dye red 48

, to dye black .49

Lathes 1

metallic and wooden 1

, construction of . 2

, proper situation for 8

Lighter case 81

• • •

VIU CONTENTS.

PAOB

Lining patterns 60

Lines in ivory filled with ink 115

Mandrel described 2

Mastic, for taming ivory thin 133

, to cleanse the ivory from 135

MiUing tools 26

Moulding tools 12

Needle cases 112,82

Overhead frame 62

Ornamented stoppers 85

Parallel rest 57

f how to use 59

, to move for side work 61

Pen-holder 70

Point tools 10

Polishing soft wood 23

hard wood 45

tortoiseshell 132

Printing in the lathe 55

Puppet 2

Rest 7

Regulating the chuck wheel 89

Right-side tools 10

Rings, to make 109

Snuff box, lined with tortoiseshell 131

Saws 13

Scraping tool 11

Screws 27

f tools for cutting 28

CONTENTS. IX

PAOS

Spiral turning 112

Table of numbers 69

Tap 21

Tenon saw 13

Tools 8

, proper method to sharpen 46

Tool rack 13

Tortoiseshell 128

Traversing mandrel 29

chuck 31

Turned temple 107

Turning patterns 65,92,102,117

Twisted pillar, support for 140

Vertical cutter 79

Vandyke pattern 74

Varnish used in the lathe 136

Woods, English 39

, Foreign 41

, to imitate mahogany 39

, to stain red 43

yellow 44

black 44

purple 44

mahogany 45

E R E A T A.

Page 65, line 4,ybr " lever, c," read " lever, 8."

Page 74, line 10, for "needle-case, r," read " needle-case, d."

Page 103, line 15, for " this and pattern 4," read " patterns

3 and 4."

PREFACE.

The primary object of the author in offering
the HANDBOOK OF TURNING to the notice of the
public, is the hope of explaining, in a clear,
concise, and intelligible manner, the rudiments
of this beautiful art; an art immortalized by
the pen of Virgil, practised by the Greeks and
Romans, and, as we are told, still existing in
those exquisite chefd^ceuvres of former years, so
much admired and sought after in our century.
A short treatise on this subject is much
wanted, and the author has endeavoured to give

such correct and comprehensive information as
will, he hopes, render the following pages use-
ful 05 a book of practical instruction to the
beginner, and of reference to those already
advanced in the study of this beautiful science.
The activity of mind requisite for the attain-
ment of perfect success in all the various
branches of Turning, by exercising die inventive
and reflective powers, cannot fail of producing
a beneficial effect on the character of youth,
which must prove a lasting advantage ; and the
minute accuracy necessary for handling the
tools, serves to confirm a steadiness of sight and
hand that must, in after years, and in other
branches of science, be highly appreciated. I

From a long experience in the endless sources
of Interest and occupation, derivable from this
pleasing and salutary employment, the author
feels assured that whoever has once patienceJ

and perseverance to overcome the first difficul-l
ties, will speedily, like himself, become an I
enthusiast in the art. And why should not ourl
fair countrywomen participate in tliis amuse'fl
ment ? Do they fear it is too masculine and I
laborious for a female hand? If so, that anxiety I
is easily removed ; the rough work can
executed by any carpenter, and when once pre- '
pared, what occupation can be more interesting '
and elegant than ornamenting wood or ivory
in delicate and intricate patterns, and imitating,
with the aid of the lathe, the beautiful Chinese 1
carving, so much and so justly admired ; besides, ]
the taper fingers of the fair sex are far better J
suited than a man's heavier hand, to produce 1
the requisite lightness and clearness of effect, j
To our charitable countrywomen, who employ I
so much of their time in raising funds for the |
diifusion of Christianity in far distant lands, for |

freeing those wretched captives who iingi
the bonds of slavery so abhorrent to the British
mind, and for augmenting the comforts of the
poor in our own happy land, tlie lathe will
prove a most useful auxiliary, as well as to
those who are anxious to bestow beautifbl and
cherished remembrances on absent friends.

Another very forcible argument in favour of
the amusement of Turning being cultivated by
the ladies and gentlemen of our free and inde-
pendent country, and one which will, lam sure,
plead most strongly with all parents and guar-
dians, is, that all occupations within doors being
usually of a sedentary nature, the exercise at-
tendant upon the use of the lathe must prove
highly beneficial to health; and one moment's
reflection will point out the incalculable advan-
tage to be derived from instilling the love of
useful employment in every youthful mind ; or,

PREFACE. XV

when freed from the irksomeness of graver
study, may they not seek companions and pur-
suits to whom they would ever have remained
strangers, had their idle hours not hung heavy
on their hands ?

Should this little work prevail upon any of
my readers to commence the study of this truly
beautiful science, and should the occupation, .as
no doubt it must, prove a source of pleasure by
adding to their amusement^ it will amply repay
the labour it has required, and bestow sincere
gratification on the Author.

mSTOET OP THE LATHE.

■' The pride of arts from &ir Ambition apringa, '
An il blooms secure beneath her fostering wiaga."

MONG all the many descriptions
of the varied, beautiful, and
useful inventions that owe
their discovery and perfec-
' tion to the genius and hand
of man, inventions that in so wonderful a degree
assist and facilitate the operations of the me-
chanic, no one has ever written the history of the
Lathe. It seems strange that, in a land where
mechanism is carried to its greatest extent, where
science of every kind is fostered and encouraged,
the heautiful machinery, the easy management
and wonderful precision obtained by die aid of the
Lathe, have never yet, in our language, found a
pen willing to desciibe them. And yet, to the

architect, the mathematician, the astronomer,
and the natural philosopher, Turning is as useful,
nay, indispensable, as to the watchmaker, the I
goldsmith, the joiner, and the smith. And it is |
not by these alone that its powers are appre-
ciated ; many of those who, by birth, station,
and riches, are not in a situation to require its
aid in their scientific and mechanical operations,
still find this art, from its great simplicity, from
the perfect ease and accuracy with which the 1
most delicate and intricate workmanship is per-
formed, the agreeable occupation it gives to the
mind, and the beauty, elegance, and utility of
its products, one of the most interesting and ■
healthful tliat can be followed.

The treasures of all lands are converted into
various and beautiful articles by the aid of the
Lathe. Gold and silver, brass, iron, and copper,
— the magnificent trees that grow in the deep

HISTORY OF THE LATHE.

forests of the West, and those that flourish on
the burning plains of Africa — the ivory obtained
from the tuslcs of the elephant and hippopo-
tamus, — the coalj jet, alabaster, and marble,
dug from the bowels of the earth — are all of the
greatest value to the turner. A kind of cocoa
nut has also lately been brought from the West
Indies, which, being hard, white, and tough,
renders it excellent for working in the Lathe;
when polished) it has the appearance of a sub-
stance between ivory and mother-of-pearl.

To the Greeks and Romans (for the exact
place of its origin is not known) the invention
of this ingenious machine is ascribed ; and
though, doubtless, in our time it has been
greatly improved and perfected, still the
ancients, to whom we owe so much, first dis-
covered and used it ; and by them its powers
were so well appreciated, that we are told it

HISTORY OF THE LATHE,

became a proverb among them, to say anything 1
was formed in the Lathe, to express its justness ]
and accuracy.

The Greek and Latin authors frequently I
mention it in their writings, but they have not j
clearly handed down to posterity the name of I
the first inventor ; indeed, on this point there
are many and varied opinions. The Sicilian
historian, Diodorus Siculus, informs us, that the
first person who made use of the Lathe was a
nephew of Daedalus, by some authors named
Talus, by others, Perdix. This youth, we are I
told, invented the saw, compasses, and other 1
mechanical instruments; and to him we possibly '
are indebted for the Lathe also, for we are told,
in ancient mythological history, so great were
his ingenuity and talent for invention, that hia I
genius soon surpassed even that of his uncle, J
who, enraged at his celebrity, and jealous of hia I

XX HISTORY OF THE LATHE.

rising fame, scrupled not to sacrifice him to his
feelings of rage and hatred; some say he was
poisoned ; others, that he was precipitated from
a high tower in the citadel of Athens ; and the
same authors assure us he was changed into a. -
partridge. ^M

Pliny, however, (and his words are great!^
authority, ) ascribes the invention of the Lathe to
Theodore, of Samos, an artist who discovered
the method of melting iron, of which he made
statues. The same author also mentions a man
of the name of Thericlesj who was celebrated
for his dexterity in Turning ; and Virgil says —

" LeDta qoibus Como fBcUi supcraddita vitis." ^M

These testimonies of ancient poets and his- ■
torians conjoined, prove it to be an art of the
greatest antiquity. Cicero also mentions it ;
and it is affirmed that, with this machine, the

nsTOEY OF THE LATHE.

Greeks and Romans turned all kinds of urns \
and vases, and adorned them with ornaments ia
basso relievo. If to Turning we really owe those
treasures of other days which are found buried
among the ruins of Herculaneum and Pompeii —
treasures so valued by the antiquary as a memo-
rial of former ages ; by the lover of the fine a
as beautiful and graceful additions to his i
cabinet of curiosities ; and by the rich and 1
opulent as ornaments superior to any that |
modern hands can produce; — surely we must
confess the workmanship of the lathes of our
times is not to be compared with that performed
by the more simple machinery of centuries ago.
It seems, indeed, almost miraculouSi that the
beautiful figures and elegant and graceful de-
signs here spoken of should be produced by a
potter's wheel, so was the Lathe anciently deno-
minated ,' but the testimonies of so many

XXII HisTony of the lathe,

learned historians agree in declaring t
aid we owe those exquisite productions, that it is
impossible for even the most sceptical to deny
it. Before we quit what may not unaptly be
denominated the romance of the history of the
Lathe, we will add, that the saw which we have
already said was invented by Talus, is supposed
to have been first made by him in imitation of
either the jaw-bone of a snake, or else the back-
bone of a fish ; and in a painting still preserved
among the antiquities of Herculaneum, is a saw
exactly resembling our frame saw, with which
two genii are dividing a piece of wood.

It is, however, certain, that could these
Roman and Grecian artificers see a modern
Lathe, examine its complex yet beautiful mecha-
nism, and the almost endless additions and
improvements it has undergone since the days of
Virgil and Pliny, they would hardly recognise

HISTORY OF THE LATHE.

it in its more finished state, and would be|
much puzzled to discover in what manne'
manage its machinery. Among the numerous
apparatus adjusted to it is a machine, by the aid
of which medallions have been executed ; and
in the British Museum is a profile in basso
relievo of Sir Isaac Newton, wholly worked in
the Lathe ; but how different from the Turning
of the ancients I The medallion machine requires
much labour and very expensive apparatus,
while the potter's wheel cannot have possessed
much mechanism or great quantities of tools,
most of those now in use being unknown in
former days.

Having now established the great antiquity of
the Lathe as a useful and classical employment,
we will briefly mention a few of the improve-
ments it has undergone in latter years. The ,
potter's wheel is, of all Lathes, the most simple ^ I

XXIV HISTORY OF THE LATHE.

it merely consists of an iron beam, or axis,
small wooden wheel placed od the beam, and a
larger one fastened to the end of the same
beam, which turns by a pivot on an iron stand.
Witli this simple contrivance the workman still
forms the body of the vessel of clay, but never
attempts to turn the handles, feet, mouldings,
or ornaments. In latter years, various and
important tools and improvements have been
made ; chucks have been invented, which
enable the turner to accomplish with speed and
facility an almost innumerable variety of circles,
lines, ellipses, and arcs, all so delicate and true
in their form and design, that they cannot fail
exciting the admiration and wonder of all who
contemplate them. The screw, also, once a
formidable difficulty to the uninitiated, is now
rendered perfectly easy of execution by
of the traversing mandrel ; those, loo, who

HISTORY OF THE LATHE.

very learned in this art, cao, out of a piece of
ivory or mother-of-pearl, produce in the Lathe
beautiful brooches, ear-rings, and studs, worked
in raised flowers ; chess-men in imitation of
carving, and ornamented vases full of detached
flowers ; while fluted and spiral columns, delicate
mouldings, and fanciful headings, are of compa-
ratively easy execution.

To form patterns upon wood or ivory, various
descriptions of chucks are employed ; one Lathe
serves for all, as they are made to screw on to
the nose of the mandrel. By the aid of the
concentric or common chuck, every article you
turn is circular; the lines forming the circle
are enlarged or decreased as the tool approaches
or recedes from the axis. The oval chuck, a
its name signifies, works designs of an oval of I
spherical shape ; the eccentric turns patterns of 1
a circular form, but its peculiar properties

XXVI HISTORY OF THE LATHE.

enable the workman to alter the centre of Iii»
work at pleasure ; the geometric and compound
eccentric produce beautiful geometric and carved
designs; the oblique and the epicycloidal also
turn curious and intricate patterns, and the
straight line chuck performs all its work in
direct lines. These are the chucks most in use,
but many of them are expensive and compli-
cated, and they only execute the ornamental
work ; the shape and size of the object are
accomplished by the Lathe, without any aid but
that of a common chuck and common tools.

The curious and varied mechanism of the
aboveraentioned chucks are truly wonderful,
and the patterns they perform very beautiful;
one of peculiar form, and exceedingly intricate,
has been invented for bankers' cheques, to pre-
vent forgery. There are also two rests, which
are necessary appendages to them ; the sliding

■ OF THE LATHE.

rest, that moves in a direct line at any angle,
and the circular rest, which enables the turner
to ornament balls, spheres, and round objects.
We must not omit, too, to mention the eccen-
tric cutter, the drill, and the universal cutter,
all exceedingly useful, and enabling the turner
to execute a great variety of designs and pat-
terns. The rose engine, also, is much admired
for all kinds of ornamental work, but it is very
expensive, and new inventions are daily adding
to the machinery of the Lathe, and rendering its
powers more extensive.

The wonderful discovery of voltaic electri-
city, by which copper plates, plaster casts, wood
engravings, and medals may be copied, can also
be applied in various ways to Turning, either in
wood or ivory. For instance, by its aid a
wooden thimble may be changed into the re-
semblance of gold, or a box take the appearance

XXVIU HISTORY OF THE LATHB. ]

of silver ; thus, while your work retains its first
beauty and delicacy, the material is apparently
of much value. It would be going beyond the
bounds of a work on Turning to give any direc-
tions for this transmutation, particularly as
there are so many already published on the
subject. We must also add, that by a careful
and steady management, the drill may be made
almost to take the place of the graver ; by hold-
ing a plate of copper steadily against it, and
using various tools, (not letting the Lathe go too
quick,) portraits and landscapes can be executed
for printing.

Having now finished this short sketch, which
we hope will not be unacceptable to our readers,
and will, perhaps, induce them to follow this
interesting and healthful occupation, we must
beg that those who peruse " The Handbook of
Turning," and follow the directions it contains.

HISTORY OF THE LATHE. XXIX

will not be daunted by the first difficulties that
assail them, but will patiently persevere till ex-
perience enables them to overcome and vanquish
them, remembering that —

** The wise and active oonqaer difficulties,
By daring to attempt them. Sloth and folly
Shiver and shrink at sight of toil and hazard.
And make th' impossibility they fear."

LIST OF TOOLS NECESSARY
FOR TURNING.

Gouges.

Screw-driver.

Chisels.

Pincers.

Scrapers.

Compasses.

Side tools.

Rule.

Point tools.

Callipers.

Moulding tools.

T square.

Liside tools.

Brace and Bits

Planes.

Screw tools.

Drills.

Milling tools.

Hatchet.

Oil-can.

Mflllet.

Glue-pot.

Hammer.

Sand Paper.

Files.

Chalk.

Vice.

Glue.

Hand Vice.

Isinglass.

Gimlets.

Pumice Stone.

Saws.

Nails.

THE

HANDBOOK OF TURNING.

The Machines used for Turning, whether
round or oval objects, are called Lathes ; they
are of various shapes and sizes; some very
small, as those generally used by watchmakers ;
others very large and powerful, for turning
iron ; and others, the kind I am going to de-
scribe, of a middling size, for fashioning wood
and ivory. The large Lathes being too heavy
to be worked with the foot, are usually turned
by a steam-engine, but the foot-Lathe is the

2 THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING.

most convenient for the turner in wood ; it may
be made of iron or wood : if of the latter, it
should be constructed entirely of very hard,
well-seasoned oak, or of mahogany. There are
various opinions respecting the advantages and
disadvantages of metallic and wooden Lathes ;
in the former it is impossible to obviate an
elastic tremor, which is unpleasant and inju-
rious ; but then, on the other hand^ they are so
much more durable and compact; and they
enable you to perform your work with so much
more accuracy and exactitude, that they are,
on the whole, perhaps, to be preferred. The
drawing given in Plate 1 will serve as a pattern
for either an iron or a wooden Lathe ; but as the
workman could construct the latter for himself,
we will suppose the description we are about to
give relates to a wooden one.

The bed of the Lathe, b b, may be of any

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING. .*J

length required^ and is firmly fastened with
bolts to the uprights o o, which form the legs of
the Lathe, and to which the bed is strongly
attached by bolts passing through both ; while
the nuts that draw them tight, being what is
called countersunk^ are of no inconvenience to
the workman. The feet and the two uprights
must also be firmly fastened to the legs o o,
and to prevent the least unsteadiness or motion,
they must be screwed strongly to the floor, and
most be of a sufficient size to form a solid sup-
port to the Lathe.

The left hand puppets, c d, or, as they are
sometimes called, the headstock, should be of
iron, and cast in one piece. The under part
fits tightly into the open space in the bed of the
Lathe, and is fixed there with screws; while
the two cheeks of the puppets rest on the bed
itself. The mandrel £, to prevent, as much as

4 THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING.

jou can, any vibration, should be as long as
possible; it runs in a metal collar, through the
puppets c D, and is of steel, turned perfectly
cylindrical j it is kept constantly oiled, by pour-
ing a few drops of oil upon it through boles
made in each of the puppets. The screw e, at
the end, is called the nose of the spindle, and
upon it the chucks intended to receive the
work are screwed. The back puppet, g, is used
to support long pieces of wood ; it is moved
backwards and forwards on the bed of the Lathe,
so as to suit the work upon which you are
occupied, by loosening the screw, l; withia the
upper part of o is a steel spindle, J, which
screws in and out of the headstock, by turning
the screw k. Care must be taken that the point
of this spindle be exactly on a line with the
nose of the mandrel, e. The point, j, takes out,
and another nose, l, can be inserted in its place,

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING.

to receive the pointed end of any small work,
should it be more convenient.

Upon the spindle is a brass or a mahogany
wheel, f; it has three grooves in it, and the
great wheel, k, has three similar grooves turned
in a V, so as more effectually to take hold of the
band which moves tliem round. The three |
different grooves in this wheel, and in the small '
one, give different velocities to them. The
band which turns them is made of strong cat-
gut, and passes under the lower and over the
upper wheel, working in the corresponding '
grooves of each ; it is joined with a hook and
eye of iron, that have a screw in them.
Slightly taper off with a sharp penknife a little
of each end of the catgut, so that it will just
enter the hook and eye ; then hold the band ,
firmly in a vice with your left hand, and with
your right take up the hook or eye in a pair of

THE HANDBOOK 1

pincers, and screw it upon the catgut till quite
firm. This is a far better means of joining the
band than any other that can be employed, as
the hooks and eyes seldom give way, and obviate
the necessity of knots or joins, which are always
cliimsj' and inconvenient. Cord, too, gives
way with the variations of the atmosphere, so
that it constantly requires shortening in dry, and
lengthening in rainy weather; catgut b so
slightly influenced by these changes, that its
use is far preferable. The treadle, N, when
moved up and down with the foot, gives motion
to the two wheels, and thus the spindle, with the
wood to be worked screwed upon it, is turned
round with a quick or slow movement. The
axle of the great wheel, S, works in two screws,
«; the crank, m, is connected at one end with
the axle, s, and at the other hooks into the
treadle frame, n. Plenty of oil should be given

THE HANDBOOK (

to the axle at Q, to enable it to work easily. J
The rest which supports the tools Is represented ■
at Fig. 1, and si ; it is made of iron, and con-
sists of three parts ; the lower has a forked foot,
T, which rests upon the bed of the Lathe, and
enables it to be drawn backwards and forwards,
so as to accommodate the workman ; this foot is
held in its place by a bolt, o, which, passing
through tlie bed of the Lathe, is sufficiently
broad to rest upon each side of the foot, t, andl
is tightened by a screw that passes underneath 1
the Lathe, f, through which it passes; thea
upper part of the rest is a cross piece of iron^ '
with a cylindrical stem, that fits into the socket, I
u, and is movetl up and down, to the right or the :
left, by loosening the screw, u. The workman 3
should have rests of different sizes, to suit i
various kinds of work, but they must all fit into J
the same socket.

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING.

Having now given a clear description of a
Lathe, I need only add, that it should be placed
opposite a window, so as to have the benefit of
as much light as possible ; a skylight above the
head is also a great advantage. As it is indis-
pensably necessary for the learner to exercise I
himself in plain turning, that is, in the formation
of different articles, so as to be able to turn
ihem perfectly round, oval, or hollow, i
quired, before attempting more difficult andl
complicated work, we will now give a list of the J
most useful tools for this purpose.

For wood, the gouge. Fig. 1, plate 1, is first |
to be employed, to reduce the unevenness i
your work; its edge is rounded. To use itf.|
place the rest on a level with the axis of the
work, and hold the handle of the tool downwards,
so that its cutting edge is above the axis. These
tools are useful foi' making concave mouldingi

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING,

In using them, do not push them roughlyi
against the woott till it becomes tolerably even, ]
or jou will spoil their edge, and chip the work;
and hold your hands very steady.

The chisel. Fig. 2, is next used, to give
smooth and polished appearance to the wood. J
Its cutting edge is oblique. Elevate the rest
considerably above the axis of the work, so that,
though held with a less inclination than the
gouge, the edge of the chisel operates on a.tj
higher part of the surface. Use this tool at j
first with great caution, for it is much more ]
difficult to manage than the gouge ; with an ii
experienced hand the point is apt to dig into
the wood, quite spoiling its surface, or else by
pressing it too firmly upon the work, it cuts o
great pieces in an uneven manner. When '
skilfully used, it should feel almost to

by itself, merely :

ing steadily along i

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING.

wood, shaving ofTall its inaccuracies, and m.ikiogfl
it look quite bright, smooth, and polisbed.J
Ail soft woods are entirely turned with the
gouge aud chisel, of both of which you must
have several sizes.

Fig. 3 is called a right-side tool, and has two
cutting edges, a side edge, and an end edge : so
as at the same time to cut the bottom and side
of a cavity. The left-side tool cuts with the
opposite side. In using them, hold the bevdn
which forms the edge downwards. m

Fig. 4 is a point tool, useful for making small
mouldings, and much employed in finishing the
shoulders and flat ends of work.

Figs. 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, are inside tools, used to turn
out hollows; also to make cups, and various
other articles.

Fig. 10 is a parting tool, used to cut off work,
and to make incisions.

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNIf

111

Fig. 1 1 is used exclusively for very liard ]
woods, as cocoas and ebony, which chip if I
attempted to be smoothed with a chisel ; (
for turning ivory, bone, or jetj one side and
the end are sharp. This tool is very strong, and
requires some practice to use it well. Be very
careful in sharpening it to keep the front edge
quite straight, or else, in hollowing out boxes,
the inner sides will not be turned out evenly |
that is, one part will be thinner than another^
This tool is held flat upon the rest, which must |
be on a level with the axis of the work, or some- i
times the tool, by raising the handle, may be !
lowered so as just to scrape the wood. It is *
frequently called a graver ; in turning metals, it
is the tool first used. Copper and brass are
easy to turn, and in case of necessity, it is useful
to have the proper tools, and to know how to ,
manage them.

12 THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING.

These tools are all indispensably necessary to
the turner, and he should exercise himself con-
stantly in their use ; for until he becomes quite
master of them, be will injure, spoil, chip, and
destroy, whatever he attempts to turn.

Figs. 12 and 13 are very useful to make
mouldings of various kinds.

The handles of the tools must be made of
very hard wood, and it is a great convenience
to have them all of nearly the same size ; for the
hand getting accustomed to them, manages them
with more facility. Drive the tool firmly into
the handle, and hold it there by a broad brass
ring, as in No. 1.

To keep the tools in good order, that is, pro-
perly ground and sharp, demands great atten-
tion. If they become chipped, grind them even
on a grindstone, taking care that the bevels
retain their proper angles. To avoid spoiling

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING.

their edges, and lo enable you to have them j
always near at hand, a rack perforated with 1
holes, into which they can slip, is very useful. ]
This rack may be fastened against the wallj ]
near tlie lalhe, A screw-driver, two or three \
different-sized gimlets, and nails of various j
kinds, most always form part of the turner's I
tooUbox ; also some files, and a hand-vice.

Before we leave the description of turning j
tools, we will menlioQ the saw, which is an in- 1
dispensable addition to the tool-box. There are 1
many kinds, but the most useful are the hand- |
saw, the tenon saw, and the circular saw. The 1
first is about twenty-six inches long, and is J
generally made with four teeth to an inch. It ,]
is used for cutting wood across, and in the
direction of its fibres. The teeth at the lower
end are smaller than tlie upper ones, by which

means the wood is not so much torn as if the

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING,

teeth were all of an equal size- The tenon saw
is used for cutting across the fibres of wood|g
the smallest saw of this kind is about fourteeni
inches long, the largest about twenty inche&.l
Circular saws are of all sizes ; they are easily
fitted up with a spindle, which, being screwed
on to the nose of the mandrel, and supported at
the other end by the back puppet, enables the
workman to turn them by the wheel of the
Lathe, while at the same time he holds the |
wood or ivory firmly against them. Should i
larger circular saw be required, it is more ad*J
visable to fit it up separately fiom the Lath^l
with a fi'ame-work and wheel to itself.

Glue, which is very necessary for turnery I
requires some little care in preparing: it must
first be steeped for several hours in cold water
to soften it; if it swells without meltini
good, and must then be dissolved in water ; tfaft^

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING. 15

proper quantities are, a quart of water to half a
pound of glue. The heat should be just enough
to melt it, and the pan in which it is contained
must be placed in a larger copper vessel, filled
with water ; by this means, when the water in
the outer pan boils, the glue will be dissolved
without any fear of its burning, which would
immediately spoil it. When you are going to
glue a piece of wood to a chuck, put very little
glue thinly and evenly over the surface of the
latter, then press the wood upon it firmly, and
place a lead weight upon them to unite them
perfectly.

CHUCKS.

The chucks, upon which the material to be
turned, whether of wood, ivory, or metal, is
always fixed, next demand our attention.
They are of every variety of size and form, and

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING.

are all screwed upon the mandrel of the La
Many are made of brass; others — the most
merous, because the turner can make them for
himself — are of wood; but ihese latter should
be used soon after they are made ; for if not
constructed of very dry hard wood, any great
variation in the weather will cause them to
shrink, and thus the screw becomes slightly
altered, and will not fit tightly to the neck of
the mandrel. To avoid the expense of having
many brass chucks, which would be very great,
if we procured them of the size and shape re-
quisite for all kinds of work, it is a good plan to
have several brass plates made about the size of
half-a-crown, plate 2, a, with a screw in them,
to fit upon the mandrel, and four screw nails
with which to fasten them to wooden chucks of
any form. Thus when these chucks are worn
out, unscrew the brass plates and screw them on

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING. 17

to Others, In plate 2 are the drawings of se-
veral chucks, which are useful for various pur-
poses ; they are all made of brass, with a screw
that fits upon the mandrel, b is a brass plate,
about two inches in diameter ; from the middle
projects a tapering screw, about half an inch
long. This is used to hold anything that is
flat, as a stand, or candlestick base, or, with the
aid of the back puppet, to support a long piece
of wood, while turning down to fit a stronger
chuck. For this purpose bore a hole in the
wood, and screw it on to the chuck, c is the
same shape, but has five iron points projecting
from its surface ; upon them the wood must be
firmly fixed by hammering it on. It is better
to use the back puppet, as the wood is apt to
become loosened by a sudden jar, or any un-
evenness in the surface.

D is universally useful either for large or

19 THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING.

small pieces of work. The wood or ivory may
be turned to the proper size to fit, on the chuck
B, and then driven firmly into the hollow cup
with a wooden mallet ; or a piece of common
wood may be made to fit it tightly, and a hole
turned in it to hold the object you intend to
turn.

E is called a ring chuck, and is made of box
wood. Drill a hole through the centre, and
then saw it across in six parts. By its being
turned smaller at "one end than at the other, this
chuck opens at the sawgates ; you then drive on
to it with a hammer, a ring of metal, and the
wood inserted in the hole will remain immove-M
able. I

F is call eda square hole chuck, the hole in
die middle having several drills and bits to use
with it, as in 3, 4, 5, 6. g is called a die chuck ;
it is the same in shape as the cup chuck, only

OF TURNING.

not so deep, and It has several screws passing I
through its sides at equal distances, and meeting I
in the centre, by which the work is held, so i
that it serves equally for a large or a small
object.

H is exactly the same in shape as g ; with the
addition of an arm, No. 1, the use of which is
as follows. If this chuck does not turn the
wood round properly, fasten to the latter what J
is called a carrier. No. 2, the end of which,!
projecting further than the chuck, rests upon]
the arm, I, and causes all to turn together.

These appear to us to be the chucks most uni-
versally in use for concentric turning; the ordi- 1
nary ones the turner may make in wood, and
those for ornamental work we shall mention 1
hereafter.

It may, however, be as well to describe thi
method of making the wooil chucks : — Select 4

20 THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING.

piece of close-grained dry wood — box is the
best ; having taken off the corners and made it
tolerably round with a chisel, or a small hatchet,
you must then find the centre of the two ends.
To do this, lay the piece of wood on a bench ;
open a pair of compasses to nearly half the
diameter of the piece; fix one point of the com-
passes firmly in the middle, and with the other
draw a circle as near the edge of the wood as
you can. If yon find the circle is not exact,
but further from the edge on one side than the
other, alter the position of the compasses, till
they become right. Bore a hole in the centre,
when found, and screw the wood on to the
chuck, B. Place your rest facing the work, and
cut in the centre of it a hole, the depth and
NEARLY the size of the screw on the nose of the
mandrel. This done, take the piece of wood
off the brass chuck, and fasten it (irmly in a

THE HANDBOOK C

vice; then screw into the hole a tap, which has ]
been made on purpose to fit the screw of the
mandrel. This tap cuts a thread as you tuiTi it |
round in the hole, so that when you unscrew
you have only to screw the wood to tlie nose of
the mandrel, taking care to make it fit quite
close to the shoulder ; it must then be turned
quite round and smooth with the gouge and
chisel, and the face of it also perfectly flat,
which is seen by holding against it the fiat part
of the T square, plate 1, n. If the square
touches all the face of the chuck, it is ready to
receive the wood ; but if you can in any part i
see the light between them, take the chisel and '
smoothe it over again. The chuck being ready,
cut a piece of wood, we will say for a box,
round it with a chisel, take some thin glue, and
fasten the wood to the chuck with it. When
quite hard and dry, begin to turn the sides even,

THE HANDBOOK OF TUK^'I^

then cut down the groove to receive the lid,
which should be glued on to another chuck.
To hollow out the box, turn the rest to the face
of the work, and use the gouge. When of a
sufficient depth, take the callipers, plate 1, k,
push the small ends down the box to the bottom,
stretch them out as far as they will, and set the
screw, then puli them slowly out, so as to mea-
sure the size of the top of the inside of the box ;
if not exactly the same, turn out a little more of
the bottom. Now begin to smoolhe the outside,
and hollow out the lid, taking great care to make
it fit exactly the groove made in the bottom of
the box ; for this purpose the callipers must be
set, so that the forked end stretches to the
width of the circumference of the groove; you
will then find that the other end will be exactly
the same width, and keep trying them to the
inside of the lid, till they enter it very ti

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNIt

then try the lid on the bottom, and it will fiL I
By thus using the callipers, you are saved much I
trouble in taking the work on and off the lathe, 1
to fit the parts together.

You must now cut the lid off the chuck,
either with ihc porting tool, or with a saw, and
having it firmly placed on the bottom, smoatlie |
and finish ofT the sides so that they look quite I
even, and as if there was no separation between j
them. This done, move the rest to the front of I
the lid, and finish it up the same, taking care |
not to leave the slightest scratch, or unevenness, 1
on the surface ; then rub the whole of the work J
well with sand paper, making the lathe turn j
very rapidly first one way, then the other, and |
finish by rubbing it over with a drop of olive
oil on a piece of rag, and the shavings of the
wood. The great beauty of turning consists in
all the parts being exact, shining, well finished

24 THE HANDBOOK OF TUHNIKG.

off, and not too thick ; to attain this latter per-
fectioD, experience is necessary, and I should
advise constant practice in turning box-wood
and holly, till the learner is able to make his
boxes fit properly, and also look neat and light.
The lid being finished, lay it aside, and saw off
the bottom ; then turn its own chuck to a pro-
per size to receive it, while you smoothe and
polish the outer part. It is requisite to be very
particular in the manner of chucking work, such
as boxes, thimbles, or anything that has been
hollowE?d out ; and remember always to make a
chuck to fit INTO THEM, instead of putting
THEM into one ; it is also better to leave a
shoulder that the work can rest against, — you
are then sure that it is supported evenly; if
not, you may find that the slightest inclination
lo one side or the other will cause you to turn
one side much thinner than the other; and if

THE HAND1300K OP TURNING.

you are working, we will say the top of a box, i
it will always look crooked, and if the bottom,
it will never stand steady. Should the box feel
loose and fall off the chuck before it is finished,
a little chalk may be rubbed upon the former,
which will give it a firmer hold, and prevent
the slipperiness consequent on the friction of
two pieces of wood ; and sometimes a thin piece I
of paper inserted between them is useful in the
same way; for although the work should fit J
close and firm on the chuck, if the chuck be I
too large, so that you have to use force to make |
them unite, you will most probably split your 1
work all to pieces. Great care also is requisite
to get it oiF the chuck ; insert one of the small
chisels between it and the shoulder of the chuck,
and move it slightly, first on one side, then on
the other. Many neat ornaments may be made
on boxes with the smaller chisels,such as lines

26 THE HANDBOOK OF TURNrNG.

and mouldings; and there are several useful
ornamental tools, called miUing tools, (see plate
5, Nos. 1, 2, 3,) which are not expensive, and
give much effect to the work. They consist of
small wheels, upon which the pattern is cut.
Place the rest so that there is space for the
wheel to turn, between it and the work, push it
close lip to the wood, hold the handle very firmly
with both hands, so that the tool cannot slip, and
with a few qnick turns of the wheel of the lalhe,
the pattern will be clearly impressed upon the
wood. With these simple tools innumerable
beautiful articles may be finished ; and though
they require neither the application nor talent
that can be displayed in performing other
ornamental work with the eccentric chuck,
cutter, and drill, still they possess two great ad-
vantages — cheapness, and facility of manage-
ment, and are easily procured.

THE HANDBOOK OF TDRNING.

By a little attention end ingesuity, a great J
variety of elegant and useful articles may be
made on the lathe, with the assistance of but a
limited collection of tools, — such as thimbles,
boxes, cups, rings, stands, small vases, stilettos,
pen-handles, pin-cushions, needle-cases, and

We now come to tlie most difficult operation ]
in turning, that of cutting a screw ; to perfor
it well and easily b a proof of the workman's I
skill and proficiency in the art. There are I
many ways of doing it, we shall therefore give
the beat and least expensive. The screw tools,
fij^ures 14 and 15, plate 1, must fit exactly one
into the other. Fig. !5 is an outside, fig. 14 a
inside tool. As the tlireads may be required to
be cut coarse or fine, according to the work

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING.

you are engaged upon, tlie small grooves in the
tools are made to suit. Having turned your
box quite round, and hollowed it out, cut the
groove upon which the lid is to fit; place the
rest at a convenient distance, turn ihe wheel not
too fast, and move the outside screw tool along
the rest with a regular horizontal motion, and it
will cut a screw, the threads of which will fill up
the space between the teeth of the tool. But care
must be taken to jerk tlie tool off when at the
end of the space intended for the screw ; or if
it be allowed to remain stationary, cutting the
wood, the threads will be destroyed, and become
useless. When this is well done, turn out the
lid of the box till it nearly fits the bottom, and
in the same manner press the inside screw tool
against the side of the cavity, draw it out hori-
zontally as the work moves round, and if care-
fully managed, it will soon be made to fit up<

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING.

the outside screw. As, however, to accomplish
this well, and with precision, great practice is
requisite, an invention, called a traversing man-
drel, is frequently used, particularly by be-
ginners ; we will endeavour to give a description
of its form and use.

At the end of the man<lrel a, pi. 4, is a brass J
cylinder, i, which fits upon the end, and is kept I
in its place by a nut, 2, which screws firmly ii
it. Below this, fixed to a brass plate that
and lowers at pleasure, by turning the si
key, B, is attached the screw guide ; (a bra
plaie cut into grooves of various sizes to t
the thread you wish to cut, fig. 3 ;) this guide '
moves round on a pin. To use this machine, u
screw the nut b, pull off the brass cylinder, and
in its place put on the guide, c, and screw the
nut in again ; turn the other guide, 3, to the §
groove which corresponds with it, and v

1 the '

usually numbered, to avoid mistakes ; turn the
key B till the lower guide meets the one you
have just put on the mandrel, and slips easily
into it. You will now find that by only allow-
ing the fly-wheel to move half round and back
again, the mandrel will run backwards and for-
wards, and thus have the exact motion requisite
for cutting a screw. Fix your rest, and hold
I your tool (which must have the same sized

■ thread as the guide then on the mandrel) quite
I steady upon the rest, against the revolving
P wood, and in a few minutes the screw will be
I produced. The inside screw is made in the

■ same manner, with the inside tool, by turning the
I rest in front of die work. Do not press the tool
H too hard to the wood at first, till the direads are
H slightly cut, so that the teeth may enter always
B in the same place. About six different-sized

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING.

cient for an amateur turner. There is also !
another way of cutting screws, by means of a
traversing cimck. On the mandrel, R, pi. 4, i&
screwed the chuck b, to which are screwed the ,
chucks of the lathe, r. On the outside of b ia
turned a screw, fitted to an inside screw worked
in tlie block c, from which extends an arm, d,
sufficiently long to allow the arm e to slide up
and down it ; a piece of iron should be screwed, j
to the circular block, c, of such a length as to I
be capable of moving in a groove that may be I
cut in the collar; it is intended to prevent tha 1
block c from turning quite round. The rest,
o, must not stand, as usual, parallel to the work,
in cutting the outside screw, but at right angles,
as when an inside screw is to be cut, in order J
that the farther arm of the rest, f, may be J
joined to the end of the second arm, g. It is I
iry that the second arm, e, shall be capable j

32 THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING.

of fastening firmly the first arm, d, to any part
of tlie rest, g, f, as also to have a joint at each
end, to admit in a horizontal plane its free
action. Thus, as the lathe turns to or from us,
the arms must traverse forwards or backwards,
which gives a similar motion to the tool, h, that
is screwed firm to the further arm, f, of the
rest, and thus you can cut a screw with a single
point tool. Of course any unsteadiness would
spoil the screw. If you draw the centre of the
rest nearertoyou, and thus bring the tool nearer
to the arm e, a screw of a much larger-sized
thread will be cut ; for as the rest, turning in
its socket, moves on a centre, the further the
tool is from the centre, the greater will be the
radius of the circle described, and vice versd.

It may, perhaps, be feared that a piece of
wood so far from the collar, K, may be apt to
spring; but this is easily avoided, by not making

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING. 33

use of the chuck, b^ till the screw is to be
turned. Another disadvantage would seem to
arise from the impossibility of cutting screws
when the puppet head is made use of. But this
may also be obviated by lengthening the arm, e,
to the part where the screw is to be cut, and
thus we have the same screw as the traversing
one. The socket, s, slides on the rest, and may
be fastened to it by a screw, the upper part that
turns on a pivot admits the arm, e, to slide
through it, which arm is held firm with a
screw.

At the commencement of the work the rest
stands at right angles with the wood on which
the screw must be cut ; then by bringing it back
to its original angle, and sliding forwards the
tool to the last thread of the screw that was just
cut, we proceed to any length required. When
two or three threads are cut, the most unskilful

34 THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING*

turner will be able to continue the screw with a
common screw tool,

BORING COLLAR.

Fig. D, plate 4, is a boring collar, used to sup-
port any long slender body which is required
to be turned hollow. Without a support of
this kind it would be impossible to keep the
wood in its place ; and it would either incline
from the centre, thus causing the hollow to be
drilled out quite crooked, or it would spring
from the chuck. To obviate these two incon-
veniences, the two collars, figs, c and d, plate 4,
are employed. In the former one, which is
made of iron or brass, the holes are conical, and
their centres are all precisely at the same dis-
tance from the axis of the collar. In using it^
remove the right hand puppet, and provide a
much lower one. Through it drill a hole, the

; IIANDBOOl

OF TUllNI

33 J

same size as that in the centre of the boring 4
collar. The centre of tliis hole must be in the I
same line with the centre of the mandrel. '
The collar, when attached to it, faces the man-
drel, and is held firm by a screw. When fixed, |
the centre hole is opposite the axis of the man-
drel; and when the largest hole is used, it
clears the top of the headstock to which it is
affixed. The end of the work to be bored J
being placed in the hole which fits it, the tool is I
held upon the rest against its centre, and the 1
boring is easily and accurately performed.

The collar, d, is perhaps a simpler apparatus
for supporting long pieces of slender wood or
ivory, and has this advantage, that the workmaa
can easily make it for himself. It should be 1
constructed of very hard, well-seasoned wood. |
The foot, E, must be in breadth exactly the s
of the aperture in the bed of the lathe, and

36 THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING.

kept quite steady by a bit of wood thrust through
it underneath the lathe. Into this collar fit many
pieces of wood with different sized holes bored
through them, (all exactly in a line with the
axis of the mandrel,) so as to admit large or
small pieces of work, the sides being grooved,
and the supports sawn to correspond ; they all
slide in with great ease, and are kept quite
steady by an iron pin which runs through the
top. The fig. G, shews the collar, with one of
the supports slipped in, the other sliding upon
it ; H is the collar, shewing the groove, and l l
are two supports that fit into it. The middle of
the apertures of these supports, whether large
or small, must always be exactly on a. line with
the axis of the mandrel, therefore, after they
are bored quite true on the lathe, they are
sawn exactly across the hole. This is a very
useful addition to the lathe, not only as a sup-

37 I

port when boring holes, but also to be used
with the right hand puppet, to give strength to
any long slender piece of work, as n screea
handle or a pen holder ; for being of great
length, the stress necessary to the proper ma-
nagement of the tools would be apt to break the
wood or ivory, and it is easy to make one of 4
the ornamental mouldings of a proper size, to I
enable it to run smoothly in one of the supports; 1
if too light, the wheel will not turn, and if loo |
loose, the work will jerk up and down.

For boring, there are many shaped tools of 1
various sizes; 16, 17, pt. 1, are drawings of the 1
most useful. They have no handles, but at the
smaller end a hole is drilled, to admit the point,
J, of the puppet, o, pi. 1. Having, with one of i
the turning tools, made an aperture in the work |
sufficiently large to allow the boring lo(
enter, screw the puppet, g, firmly to the bi

38 THE HANDBOOK OF TUIININO.

the lathe, then turn the small wheel, K, till the
pomt enters the hole in the tool, which must be
steadied by holding it straight and firm with a
pair of pincers. Make the wheel turn rather
quickly, and with the left hand keep moving the
small wheel, k, very gently, so as to force the
tool into the wood. After a few turns, slop the
lathe, and take onl the boring tool, to get rid of
the shavings and dust; move the puppet nearer
and begin again. A little difficulty will be
found in making the tool enter the wood, or bUe,
as it is called, but by humouring it gently, it
will 600n take hold; care must be taken to keep
it quite straight, and not to go too fast, or It
will be liable to break. This method of boring
is only used for small hollow tubes, needle-
cases, crochet needles, handles, and small
work.

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING. 39
OF WOODS.

There are many beautiful English woods
which are excellent for turning ; beech is very
universally used, and it should be cut into mo*
derate sized pieces and boiled, to render it more
durable, and to make it work smoothly.

Elm and chesnut are also much admired ; if
the latter be dipped in alum water, then brushed
over with a hot decoction of logwood, after-
wards with one of Brazil wood, it will be made
to imitate mahogany. Green wood should
never be used, as it is apt to split ; it should be
kept for at least a year before attempting to
turn it. Some persons, if they fear the wood
has not been sufficiently seasoned, cut it up
and put it in a vessel filled with a ley made of
wood ashes. In this it must be boiled for an
hour, and allowed to remain in the liquor till

THE HiNDBOOK OF TURNING.

quite cold, afterwards it must be dried i
shade.

Old walnut wood is very beautiful ; to im-
prove its colour it may be put in the oven, and
when worked, polish it with its own oil, very
hot. I

Sycamore, when grown in favourable situa-
tions, is as white, and nearly as hard, as holly ,-
the cherry, yew, laburnum, and pear tree woods
are also very beautiful ; but though invaluable
for plain turning, they are not hard enough, or
of asufficienlly close and fine grain, to admit of
ornamenting them in delicate and minute pat-
terns. The milling tools are generally em-
ployed for them. Of all English woods the
holly is the whitest, and is rendered still more so
by boiling ; it is, when very good, used for in-
laying, in imitation of ivory. Box is the hardest
and toughest of our woods ; when cut |

THE HANDBOOK OF '

wise it IS apt to warp, if not well seasoned ; J
but its yellow colour, if highly polished,
much admired, and it will receive the most I
delicate patterns; it is also used as a substitute |
for ivory.

The foreign woods are those most prized by
the ornamental turner, on account of their hard-
ness, and the beautiful polish which can be
given to them. Cocoas, or the wood of the palm,
is much used for all kinds of ornamental work. |
It is of a beautiful brown, streaked with darker |
veins, and is found in the West Indies.

Ring wood is extremely hard, of a chocolate
brown, with black veins; it is a good wood for
turning, and comes from Brazil.

Partridge and leopard woods, tulip and snake I
woods, are also frequently used ; the latter is of 1
a very deep red, and very hard.

Calamander wood, a tree growing in the

42 THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING.

island of Ceylon, is very hard and heavy, and
the veins in it most beautiTully shaded. The
principal colours are a fine chocolate, sometimes
deepening almost into black, then gradually
shading into cream colour. It is a very hard
wood, and takes a high polish.

African tliorn is of a beautiful dark colour,
and much prized when it can be obtained good,
which is rarely the case.

Ebony, an exceedingly hard, smootli, foreign
wood, is much admired by turners. The best
is a jet black, free from any veins, and receiving
a very high polish. There is some difficulty in
keeping woods to prevent them from warping
or cracking. The foreign woods, particularly,
being usually very dry, often open in fissures
while working. The best method of preserving
them is to place them in a cool and rather damp
place, and to rub a little oil now and then over

THE HANDBOOK OF TUBNIT

431

the outsides, to keep them moist. If the wood!
is sufficiently large to allow of its being quar-J
tered, the danger of its splitting is mneh less ; J
but the foreign woods are rarely large, as thel
trees are generally very high, but small in cir-
cumference. If foreign woods cannot easily be I
obtaiaed, box wood and holly may be stained s
as greatly to resemble them. The dying woods \
to be used must be in small chips or raspings. I
When the wood is ordered to be brushed over I
several times with the fluid, it should be dried M
between each time. If the stain is wjshec
be very deep, the wood should be boiled in the 1
stain.

TO STAIN WOOD RED.

Mix two ounces of Brazil wood, and two of
potash, in a quart of water, let them remain in a
warm place for some days, stirring them oi
sionally. With this boihng liquid brush over I

THE HANDBOOK OF 1

the wood till it becomes of the requisite colotd
then dissolve two ounces of alum in a quart
water, and while the wood is wet brush it over
with it. For a pink or a rose red, use double the
quantity of potash.

A YELLOW STAIN.

Steep one ounce of turmeric in a pint of spirits
of wine, let it stand for several days. Brush the
wood over with it. A red yellow is made 1
adding to the above alitde gum tragacanth.

A BLACK STAIN.

Brush the wood with a hot decoction of lof
wood, then with common ink.

uapLE STAIN.

Boil one ounce of logwood and two dracfan
of Brazil wood in a quart of water, over a i
derate fire. When one half is evaporate*

URNING.

45 '

Strain it, and brush the wood over with it.
When dry, brush it over with a solution com-
posed of a drachm of peariash in a pint of '

water.

* MAHOGANY STAIN.

For a light stalD, mix two ounces of madder
and one of fustic in a quart of water, and boil
them all together ; a darker stain is made by
using half an ounce of logwood in the place of
the madder, and then bmshing the wood with a
weak solution of potash.

All hard woods are easily polished ; first, they I
are made perfectly smooth and even, with the
turning tools, after which rub them with sand
paper, then with Dutch rushes, which, to pre-
vent their breaking into small pieces, should be
steeped in water. While using these, make the
lathe turn quickly round, sometimes one way,
sometimes the other, to prevent any unevenness,

OK OF TURNING.

and keep moving the sand paper, 8cc. &c. or the
edges are apt to cut lines. When this is done,
and the work looks smooth, rub over it a drop
or two of olive oil, wipe it clean with its own
shavings, take it off the lathe, and brush it with
a very hard brush, the same as those used for
blacking leather.

As it is impossible to turn well unless your
tools are in good order, great care must be
taken to keep them very sharp. If a bit of the
steel splits away, as is frequently the case in
turning hard woods, grind it down till it be-
comes even again, then rub it on the Turkey
stone, with a little olive oil, till the edge is so
sharp that you cannot see it ; for the gouges and
hollow tools, thick Turkey stones, rounded at the
edges, are sold, which enter into the groove, and
the outer edges are nibbed on the flat stone.

As soon as the turner becomes quite mas

THE HANDBOOK OF 1

of his tools, he will find ivory much pleasanter
to work than wood ; it is not so liable to split,
it turns smoother, polishes with less trouble, aad '
shews any ornamental work much better than
wood. But then it is very expensive, and very
difficult to obtain good and white. New ivory
may be bleached by exposing it in the sunshine,
and wetting it constantly, or it will crack ; but
till the ivory is cut up, you cannot tell whether
it will be good or not. Pieces may be bought
cheaper that have a hollow in the middlej they i
serve very well for pedestals of vases, by screw-
ing another bit into the hole, or for boxes, by I
glueing in a piece of ebony to fit the hollow. '
Ivory is polished befire ornamentiug, with putty
powder, ground very fine, rubbed on with i
piece of linen dipped in water, dry it, and rub j
very bard with a bit of felt, and the polish will j
be beautiful. But after it b ornamented, polish

. HANDBOOK OF TURNINC.

only with a brush dipped in water and chalk, C
even in plain water.

For dying ivory, it is first necessary to
cleanse it from the grease which it always con-
tains, more or less, and which would prevent ils
receiving the stain or dye. For this purpose,
mix half a pound of nitre in an equal quantity
of water, lie a string round the pieces of ivory,
and dip them in while tlie liquor is hot, then
plunge them into cold water.

Take half a pound oi' pieces of scarlet cloth,
put them into a clean earthen pot; add one
ounce of soft soap, after which pour in three
quarts of soft water. Boil all together for half
an hour, stirring it frequently, and squeeze ihe
cloth several times, to extract the colour. Wlien
this is done, have ready an earthen vessel, put

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING. 49

into it as much pulverized alum as will lie upon
a sixpence, pour the scarlet liquid over it, and
extract all the colour from the cloth by pressing
it in a canvas bag. Steep the ivory in this
liquor till it becomes of the proper scarlet.

BLACK DYE.

Boil a quarter of a pound of logwood shavings
in a quart of water in an earthen vessel for half
an hour. Steep the ivory in it.

On taking the ivory out of these boiling liquors,
immerse it instantly in cold water, to prevent its
cracking.

ELLIPTIC TURNING.

This machine is frequently called, by those
who do not understand the ellipse, an oval
chuck ; but it is not oval, for an oval expresses
an object that is smaller at one end than at the

THE HANDBOOK I

Other. Fig. 1, plaie 3, is a front view of tlie
machine, i k is the iron plate to which all the
parts (except the ring, hereafter described) are
fastened. A screw, similar to that on the nose
of the mnndrel, is riveted to this plate, fig. w,
and upon it whatever you wish to turn is fixed.
Fig, 2 exhibits a back view of this machine, at
each of the four corners there is a short square
pillar marked u. Within these are two narrow
ribs of steel, reaching the whole length of tlie
plate I K. Each of them, being bevelled, forms
an angular groove, reaching all its length. By
means of these grooves the slider, F, moves up
and down.

When the slider is in its place, two piei
steel, M M, bear upon the side pieces, to
and to the plate i k, they are firmly attached by
four screws, x x x x. The plate, F, being cast
in the same piece as the slide, cannot be thrown

res up I
vhic^^

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING,

out of its place, but moves in a longitudinal di-
rection only, the nut, l, acting as a stop to pre-
vent its going too far. Ttie space between the
end pieces, M m, is just equal to the diameter of
tbe ring, o, lig. 3| upon tlie outside of which
they revolve when the nut is screwed upon the
mandrel. Two arms, n r, are connected with
il, and in each tliere is a groove extending
nearly their whole length. This machine is
connected with the lathe, and its motion obtained ^
as follows : — e e, fig. 4, represents a headstock,
through which two holes are drilled, the centres
of which are precisely in a line with the centre
of the mandrel, m ; the rhig is fastened to tha
headstock by two screws, i i, the shanks of ]
which pass through tlie grooves and through the
holes in the headstock. When the ring Is in
this position. It will be perceived that it can only I
move from side to side, and its centre mustrl

5-2

always be in the same horizontal line with that
of the mandrel. Now screw upon the niEindrel
the nut, L, fig. 2. The plate, i k, if set exactly
opposite the mandrel, will revolve in a circle, but
if the centre of the ring be the least in the world
on one side of the mandrel, it will revolve in an
ellipse. When, therefore, the work is fastened
to the screw, w, it is quite as easy to turn an
ellipse as on the ordinary lathe to turn a cylinder.

Of course the slider must move with great
steadiness and freedom, to effect which, very
great accuracy in the workmanship must be
observed. Figs. 5 and 6 are two different views
of the machine, — 5 is the side, 6 the end vie'

To turn a hollow sphere, the convex
face is first turned, .ind perfectly smoothed and
finished, it must then be bored with a centrebit,
to make an aperture sufficiently large to admit
the tool, fig. 7, plate 1, with which the interior

THE HANDBOOK OP TURNING.

must be worked away. As, liowever, it would
require a large aperture to enable you to hollow
out the whole sphere, it is preferable to make
six openings with the centrebit, each in a. line I
with the centre; tliey must also be made at
equal distances from each other, and every hole
must be at right angles with all the rest, except
one, whicli is exactly opposite to it. Place the
sphere in a chuck, with the middle of any two J
of the holes in a line with the axis of the m
drel; turn out as much as you can of the first 1
hole, then bring the other holes forward and do 1
likewise; at last the excavations will be cut
through.

To turn the Chinese balls, which are so much
admired for their beauty and curious workman-
ship, we are told to proceed as follows: — As
they are composed of spheres one within the
other, the holes must be just deep enough to

34 THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING.

leave the thickness between each little more than
the diameter of the smallest sphere. The work
must be begun by forming the innermost sphercj
and afterwards it must be continued regularly
on to the larger, till at last the outer sphere is
completed.

An immense, almost an endless variety of
figures may be worked in the lathe by carefully
regulating the tools. Beautiful flowers in ivory,
equal to the Chinese carving, are formed by the
experienced turner, with small wheels and other
instruments ; medallions, even, are executed in
the lathe, with machinery so constructed that
the tool follows on the wood the exact lines
the head that is being copied.

Gold and silver ornaments, such as watches,
snuff-boxes, and other trinkets, are worked with
what is called a rose engine; plates with patterns
indented upon them are fastened upon the man-

OOK OF TURNING.

drei ; the screw regulates the tool, which pro-
duces an exact counterpart of the pattern-
Many of the copper cylinders used in printing
calicoes afford curious specimens of engraving
in the lathe. It is impossible to imagine any-
thing more beautiful than the eifect produced,
and a whole web of linen is printed by them in
a very few minutes. The methods employed in
this kind of turning by the various artists who
practice it are but little known ; and indeed, to '
look at the patterns produced, it would be sup-
posed that tlie graver must have been used
to form them. A general idea of the nature of
the work is all we are enabled to give. The
pattern intended for the cylinder must be cut
upon a small steel wheel, which revolves upon
an axis. This wheel is then to be held against
the copper cylinder, which quickly revolving in
the lathe carries it round, and receives fi'om it

56 THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING.

the impression of its pattern. The wheel
operates like a punch, but the rougliness it
makes on the edge of the work is easily polished
down.

Having now finished the directions for con-
centric and elliptic turning, we will, before be-
ginning the ornamental parts of this interesting
art, beg to impress upon the minds of our readers
that they must never be discouraged by failure
in their first attempts, even though they may
be subjected to many disappointments ; for, as
the Bard of Avon expresses it —

*' Oft expectation fails, and most oft there
Where most it promises ; and oft it hits
Where hope is coldest, and despair most sits.**

THE HANDBOOK OF TURN

ECCENTltlC TURNING.

5 name includes all t
^s, beautiful, and i
I work for which the powers of a
laihe are so justly celebrated, '
and which once seen must be '
admired by all who love the fine arts and exa-
mine the powers of machinery. The eccentric
cutter, the drill, the eccentric chuck, and thoj
universal, or vertical cutter, are all indispensablej
for those who wisli to perform ornamental tun
ing, and with them the most delicate and intri^
cate patterns can be worked with a precision and J
accuracy that are truly wonderful. A sliding,
or parallel rest, is absolutely necessary for turn-
ing patterns, as upon it, in some degree, depends
their exactness. Fig. 1, plate 5, is the drawing ■
of one. The foot, a, screws firmly to

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING.

of the kthe, like the common rest, and the tipper
part fits into the socket, b, and by means of the
nut, c, is turned in any direction you wish.
D n is a bed of steel, five or six inches long :
through the groove down the middle is a screw
which passes from one end to the other, and by
turning the squarehead, e, the tool slider, j, is
pushed backwards or forwards, while the rest
itself remains stationary. The steel bed is gra-
duated. Between the bed and the screw, e, is
a small brass wheel, divided into numbers, o;
this regulates the position of the tool. The tool
slider, J, fits into the bed, H, and slides in and
out; J is the part where the tool slips in, and it
is kepi firm by a screw, k. The handle draws
it to and from the work, and the nuts, 1 1, regu-
late the depths of the cuts. The tools belonging
to this rest, 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, are of steel, about two
inches long, and are ground to diflerent anglma

THE HANDBOOK OF TUltNING,

there are various sizes of each. When you i
tend to ornament a. piece of wood or ivory, first I
turn it quite round, and smooths it with the 1
common tools ; you must then make the sui'face |
perfectly Jlat, and to accomplish this, adjust the
sliding rest at a proper distance, put in one of
the round ended tools, No. 5, let it just (oucft the
wood by setting the screws, / I ; put the lathe in '
motion, and gently approach the tool to the work;
if it cuts too deep, tighten the screws a little I
more, if too little,push the too! forward. Keep the j
tool steadiiy up to the work by pressing on the |
lever, s, which impels the tool slide forward, then,
with the right hand, turn the head, e, by means
of a handle, p, which will thus enable the tool 1
slide to rim from one end of the brass bed to the |
other, at the same time that the lathe is turning
rapidly round, and thus the surface of the wood is
rendered perfectly smooth, level, and polished. I

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING.

Sometimes, however, it will require to be worked
over in this manner three or four times before it
becomes quite flat ; and frequently, even when it
appears level, there will still be a hollow in the
middle, which will quite destroy the accuracy
of the patterns i to discover whether this is the
case or not, take the T square, see plate 1, fig. n ;
place it with its edge against the wood, if you
can see light between it and the work the sur-
face cannot be even, and requires smoothing over
again. The next process is to cut very delicate
circles all over the work, at regular distances; this
is done to take off the bright look of the wood,
that the patterns may appear to greater ad-
vantage. Put into the tool slide a double
angular tool. No. 4 ; adjust it so as to make a
distinct, but still delicate cut into the wood.
Make one cut in the middle of the work, move
the brass wheel, a, one number, or from 1 to 2,

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING.

61 I

make a second cut, move to 3, then to 4, and I
GO on ; ench circle you will find enlarges gradu-
ally, rill you arrive at the end of the wood, I
Pattern 1, plate 6, is a specimen of this work ;
but remember, it is merely a preparation for |
otiier patterns. In doing side work, as the side |
of a box, or a knitting case, unscrew the screw c,
and turn the brass bed of the rest round rill in a I
line with it, then proceed as directed for face I
work. The wood being ready, we will now go J
on to give a description of the eccentric cutter, ;
plate 5, fig. 2. Like the tool slider, it fits into I
the sliding rest, but now it is no longer the work I
which moves round and the tool stationary, but |
the wood remains firmly fixed while the tool
rapidly revolveS) and cuts the patterns. For 1
this purpose, it is obviously necessary that the ]
fly wheel should turn the cutter, while the sn
wheel remains immovable. Several methi

62 THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING.

are used to perform this, the one given, plate 4,
fig. K, is the eaiiiest. The frame here repre-
sented should be of iron, firmly screwed to the
bench of the lathe, and of sufficient height to
be about a foot above the head of the workman.
In front is a spindle, which works in two nuts,
No. 1 1, exactly in a line with the mandrel. Two
wooden wheels, No. 2 2, are fastened to this
spindle, the one on the left hand remains sta-
tionary over the fly wheel of the lathe, by whicli
it is turned, the other slips backwards and for-
wards, according to the work it is required to
do. Take off the usual catgut from the fly-
wheel, and pass a long one over it, and over the
small wheel on the overhead frame, No. 2.
When the cutter, 2, plate 5, is fixed in the slide
rest, draw the other small wheel on the spindle,
No. 2, forward, till just above the rest, then pass
a catgut over it, and round the small brass

THE HANDBOOK OF TUIt

wheel, B, of the cutter, and the wtiole will turn 1
together. The brass wheel of the lathe must J
then be fixed at one particular number. It it
usually divided into three hundred and sixty I
divisions, each marked by a small hole in thea
brass wheel, as in fig. a, plate 4, and it is by I
properly dividing the numbers on this plate that I
the accuracy of the patterns depend; to keep I
the wheel steady, a small steel key, h, plate 4, |
is shpped into the brass nob, o, plate 4, and th«fl
other end being pointed enters into one of the!
small holes, say the one marked 360, the work 1
is then immovable until you remove the key into I
another hole. The cutter itself is of brass, with!
a spindle, c, which works in two brass collars. |
At one end is the wheel, b, by which it is turned,!
at the other a steel frame, i) i>, which is marked]
on the upper edge in small lines, e, to regu
the quantity of eccentricity. The steel I

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING.

box, F, holds the tool, wliich is kept firm by a.
small screw underneath. By means of a screw
through the frame, d d, similar to that of the
sliding rest, the tool is pushed backwards and
forwards, and cuts a large or a small circle, a is
the nut that moves it, and it also is divided
into numbers. This cutter, for many patterns,
is quite as useful as the eccentric chucli, but in
conjunction with the former it is invaluable, and
the patterns performed by them may be multi-
plied according to the taste and genius of the
turner. The two screws, h h, fix the depth of
the cut; the wheel of the sliding rest deter-
mmes the necessary distance, that of the cutler
the eccentricity, while the brass wheel keeps the
pattern accurate. The tools, Nos. I, 2, 3, 4, 5,
plate 5, are of various forms and sizes ; care
must be taken not to break ihein, and the cutler
must be constantly well oiled with olive oil; the

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING. 65

holes, K K, are made to receive it. In using this
tool, make the wheel of the lathe go very quick,
but approach the tool very gently and slowly to
the work. The better to do this, the lever, c, is
used ; it enters into one of the holes in the side
of the cutter, and into a similar one in the slid-
ing rest, so that by a slight pressure the tool is
impelled gently forward. There are generally
about two dozen tools shaped like those in the
plate, but of various sizes.

To imitate the second pattern, plate 6, which,
it will be perceived, is a number of circles, slide
the cutter towards the edge of the work by
turning the screw of the slide rest, then, to make
the outer circle of the border, turn the small nut,
4^, of the cutter six times round ; put a double
angular tool into the tool box, screw it firmly,
adjust your cutter by the screws, h h, to the
proper distance, and stop your wheel with the

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING.

Steel key at 360. Cut one circle, alter your
wheel tliirty numbers, cut another circle, then
thirty numbers more, till the twelve circles are
all cut. This done, alter tlie wheel fifteen
numbers, which will make the circle cut half
through two of the former ones, then move
30, as before, till the twelve are done. For the
small inner circles turn the nut, g, of the cutter
two turns back, to reduce the size, and move 30
as before. The pattern in the middle is still
circles, though differently arranged. Draw back
the cutter till a little past the middle of the
work, then unscrew the nut, a, fifteen turns,
cut one circle, move the brass wheel 15, cut
Bnother ; move 15, cut another ; then move 45,
cutanother; move 15, then 15, and so on till all
are finished.

Third pattern. — Set the cutter at five turns,
and move five numbers on the brnss wheel for

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING.

every circle. For the middle pattern, turn the^
nut of the cutter eight times, move ninety niim- i
bers on tlie wheel, till four circles are cut;:
then move 45, cnt another ; then 90 again. ;
To make the small circles, turn the nut,
backward two turns, and move 90 as before,
for the four first circles ; then move 45 ; then 90
to the end.

Fourth. — The border of this pallern is the ]
same as the one in No. 3, only you place a piecel
of wood about a quarter of an inch in depthl
across the bed of the lathe, letting it pass half 1
under the slide rest ; screw the rest down firmly, I
and proceed as above. By thus raising the rest J
in a slanting position, half the circle only is cut, j
which has a very pleasing effect. For the cei
pattern set the cutter at a small circle, cut one

I the middle, ha\

■ the wheel fixed at {

Then move the brass wheel of tiie slide rest,-!

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING.

plate 5, three numbers for each circle ; these
done, return to the middle circle and continue
the same to the other end. Then move the
brass wheel of the lathe to 45, and repeat as
above, three numbers for each circle, till the
next row is finished ; then again move forty-
five numbers on the large wheel; and so on to
the end.

Fifth pattern. — Set the cutter at a large circle,
the brass wheel at 360. Move 5 for four
circles, then move 15, then 4 four times more,
then 15 again, and so on to the end. For
the middle, set the cutter to a small circle, and
move the brass wheel of the lathe 90, four
times.

Sixth pattern. — Set the cutter to the largest
circle it will make, begin in the middle of the
work, set the wheel at 360, and move ten ever^ ,

'»,

LIST OF NUMBERS ON THE SMALL WHEEL AND

ECCENTRIC CHUCK.

LATHE

CHUCK WHEEL.

No. of
divisions

for
one cut.

No. of

cuts to

com]^lete

the circle.

No. of
divisions

for
one cut.

No. of

cuts to

complete

the circle.

No. of
divisions

for
one cut.

No. of

cuts to

complete

the circle.

360

—

—-

120

—

180

—

120

—

_ —

—

l *

Is^VL

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING. 69

To assist the beginner^ a drawing is given of
the wheel, supposing the largest number to be
360, A, plate 4. By this the numbers are all
arranged ; a table of the divisions is also given ;
for on the proper and accurate calculation of the
numbers depends the exactness of the patterns.
The plate on the wheel divided at 144 is the
plate for marking half circles, and arcs, as in
plate 12, fig. 3, which shall be described here-
after. These patterns are very beautiful, and
from the arcs being gradually reduced in size,
they have a curious and elegant appearance, but
they cannot be worked without an eccentric
chuck.

THE DRILL.

The drill is a most useful auxiliary to the
eccentric cutter, not only for drilling holes,
which it does with great nicety and speed, but

70 THE IIANOBOOK OF TURNING.

utso for making mouldings, and patterns of
various kinds. Unlike the cutter, which moves
either in a large or small circle, the drill can
only work upon its own centre, and therefore
the size of the pattern depends upon the tool
placed in it, its position being regulated by the
screw in the sliding rest, into which it slips like
the cutter. It is turned by a rope exactly the
same as in the directions already given for the
eccentric cutter, and greatly resembles it in
shape, except at the end, a, plate 7, wliich is
made just to receive the tool, and a small screw
keeps it firm. Suppose you wish to ornament
anything — say, the pen-holder, plate 9 — with
concave mouldings, as in a. Having set the
lest by the aid of the r square, exactly in the
same slanting direction, put a round-ended tool,
No. 3, into the drill, set it to the proper dis-
tance, fix the brass wheel at 360, cut a round

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING.

hole ; move the wheel to 72, cut another, and
so on till five are drilled ; then, without altering
the rest, put in a smaller round-ended drill, hold
it by means of the lever well up to the work,
make the large wheel go very quick, and slowly
turn the screw of the slide rest, so as to impel
the drill whichever way you wish. Do not cut
too deep at first, or you will break the tool ; if
a great depth is required, go over in the same
line three or four times. This done, count
72, as before, and proceed the same; the pattern
will have the appearance of the pen-holder in
the drawing. The end, b, is, after being turned
to the shape, ornamented in small holes, that,^
resemble a honeycomb, in the same manner^l
with a round-ended drill ; counting so as to
make them fit nicely between each other. To
do this, you must be able to subdivide your first
numbers. Tims, suppose you drill a round

THE HANDHOOK OF TURNING.

hole at 1, 40, 80, and so on, till you come to
360, these numbers can be divided by beginning
the nest row (which must be begun the breadth
of the tool from the former one, by turning the
slide rest screw half, or a whole turn, according
to the breadth of the tool) at 20, then count
forty numbers as before; but if you had taken
forty-five instead of forty for your number, you
could not have divided it evenly in the second
row, so as to make the holes intersect each other.
Be very careful to remember how many times
you turn the slide rest wheel, that each cut may
be of equal length. There are generally about
four dozen tools belonging to the drill, of various
sizes, but of the shapes given in plate 7. Nos. I
and '2 drill large or small holes, as for instance,
round the sides of a turned pincushion, or needle
book, for the stitches to go through : 3 is used
to make concave mouldings, or to cut quite

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING. 73

through the work in straight lines, as in the
lighter case, e, plate 9. This pattern looks very
pretty, and is quite easy if your work is turned
sufficiently thin; it should be lined with coloured
velvet. N6. 4 makes concave mouldings flat at
the bottom ; these tools are also used to cut round
dots : 5, cuts small or large headings, which give
great lightness and finish to the work. Having
made a moulding with the hollow tool No. 2 of
the slide rest, choose a beading tool that just fits
the moulding, put it in your drill, set it to cut
sufficiently deep to be quite round at the top ;
having cut one, count by the brass wheel the
proper distance, to make them fit close, but
without one spoiling the shape of the other ; the
round dots on the bottom of the lighter case are
intended to represent t')* S3 beads. Tool No. 6
cuts mouldings of the same shape as the
drawing. In using this and the tools Nos, 7

THE HANDBOOK OF TOIINING.

and 8, be careful, after the first cut, where you
place them for the second, to make them fit ;
and in using all the drill tools, make the lathe
go as quick as you can, but move your tool very
shwli/, and keep the drill slide well oiled.

These tools are also useful for cutting oul the
edges of work in Vandykes, as in the top of the
lighter case, e, for which pattern the tool No, 8
was used, the gimped edge being cut with No. 2 ;
the end of the needle-case, it, in plate 9, is done
with a round-ended drill, No. 3, in the same
manner as directed for the end of the pen-holder-
lu the patterns Nos. 1 and 6 of plate 11, the
straight hnes near the centre are cut with the
round-ended drill.

All the eccentric tools require the greatest-
are in sharpening, and the above ingenious

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING.

niacliine lias been invenled for tbis purpose ; it|
is represented at p, in plate 4. The upper part, ,
], is a plate of brass, the outer edge, 2, is gradu- 1
iiled as high as 50 eacli way, beginning at the I
tongue, 3. Beyond the numbers is a groove, in I
which one end of the tool slide, 4, slips, and ii
firmly fixed (so as to point to any of the num-
bers that suit the angle of the tool) by a nut
iindernealb. The whole plate, 1, is raised and
lowered at pleasure by a small binge at 5, and |
the requisite height is fixed and settled by count* J
ing the numbers on the steel tongue, 3. Under- 1
Death is another brass bed with two feet, uponl
which the machine rests, while the front parti
leans forwards and rests upon the end, 5. Th&:1
box that contains the goneometer has three 1
drawers in it ; the first is lined with brass, except I
for about three inches in width, which space
covered with fine Turkey stone. To use this j

OOK OF TURNING.

machine, take out this drawer, lay the feet of thi
goneometer on the brass, put the slide rest tool,
No- 4] into the tool box, screw it iirm, then slide
the toot box along the groove till it arrives at
the proper angle, say 45 ; fix it with the nut
underneath, then raise the whole brass plate, 1,
sliding it along the tongue, S, till at the exact
height necessary for the tool to touch the Turkey
stone. Rub it backwards and forwards upon it
with oil. When one side is sharp, move the tool'
slide to the opposite angle, to sharpen the other.
The small eccentric tools are placed in the sted'.
case, u, and the case fits into the tool slide.

CIRCULAR REST.

The rest we have already described, called the
Parallel Rest, works, as its name sufficiently
expresses, in a straight line ; it is therefore use-
less for ornamenting spherical object

THE HANDBOOK OF TUENING.

circular rest has lately been invented to supply
this deficiency. It is a most ingenious contriv-
ance, and perfectly fulfils the purpose for which
it was invented. |

The bed, a a, is the same as in the parallel
rest, and screws in the same way to the bed of
the lathe. B is a brass socket and pillar, which
support the bed c, in which the tool box slides ;
they are formed in the same piece with the lower
bed, L L, and firmly fixed into the lower part),
which is grooved, by four brass-headed screws,
N N. The grooves enable the whole socket and
tool box to slide backwards and forward:
the bed of steel, d d, and by means of the screw
which passes through it, the workman regulati
the advance or retreat of the rest to or from the
work in a straight line, while the lower part
remains stationary. The small wheel, e, is
graduated, and turned by a key, to

THE HANDBOOK OF TUR-VINR.

turner to count the distance. F is a steel spindle,
which works in two brass collars, o g; about
half way down, the spindle is formed into a screw,
o, which turns upon the brass wheel, h, and by
moving the nut, J. moves the whole rest in a
circular direction, in tlie same way that the
screw b the steel bed, d n, impels it in a straight
line; by this ingenious contrivance all objects
that are round or spherical can be ornamented ;
such as balls, the globular sides of vases, or
small baskets, in every variety of pattern. The
learner will easily discover the proper mel
of using this rest, which is very simpli
mechanism and use. The nut, e, is for setting
the tool slider at different angles, the same as in
the parallel or sliding rest ; the tools to be em-
ployed are those of the abovemen tinned rest.

The I

!tbo4^H

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING. 79

THE VERTICAL, OR UNIVERSAL CUTTER.

PLATE 7.

This cutter, which also fits into the slide rest,
is different from the others; and as its name
denominates, the patterns it can cut are almost
endless, for it may be turned in any direction.
The bed of the slide is the same as with the
drill ; at the end, No, 1, is a screw, which, when
turned by the key, b, inclines the tool-holder, 2,
to any angle that may be required, and it is
regulated by the lines on the brass plate, 3, which
are marked by a small steel point ; so that if you
wish to cut out a pattern slanting to the right,
and another to correspond slanting to the left,
you have only to mark the number on the plate,
where you cut the first, and then with the key
move the cutter to the same position on the
opposite side. When the tool-holder, 2, stands
straight, as in the plate, the tool cuts horizon-

OF TURNING.

tally ; when it is screwed down to the last line4
on the plate it cuts perpendicularly, but the cut ]
always scoops out; and by putting the tool a
far out of the holder as you can, the cut will be 1
larger, and the scoop deeper. The back sup-l
port of the pulley, 4, moves with the tool-holder ;
and the pulleys, 6, correspond with each; the
back one is turned in the same direction as the
front one, by unloosing the screw, 6. The gut,
after passing over the pulley on the over-head
frame, comes through the two back pulleys of
the cutter and round the front one, as in tbo i
plate ; but when the cutter is screwed flat, a *
short cord, the same as that used for the drill,
is sufGcient ; and the back pulleys are then not
necessary. This tool requires constant oiling
at D D, for the friction is very great; it also
demands much care and delicacy in using it,
it must not be incautiously thrust against i

THE HANDBOOK OF TUENING.

wood, or it will stick fast, and not turn round.^fl
There are about four dozen tools, all of thej
shapes given in the platei but of various sizes.4
This cutter slides into the slide rest, and the |
depth of the cut is, as usual, regulated by the
screws at the end, and the cutter is brought to
the work by the aid of the same lever as is used
for the drill and eccentric cutter. The patterns
cut by this tool are counted and regulated by
the numbers on the brass wheel, as with the |
others. When the turner has once tried it, h&«
will readily discover its advantages for all kinds!
of ornamental work, particularly for the sides of J
boxes, needle-cases, and many other articlesj:
but it is needless to give many drawings of the*
patterns, as they much depend upon the taste. I
of the turner.

One beautiful design for a lighter case, o:
small basket, is worked with this cutter with i

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING. 83

is intended to contain a tin or glass of water ;
in the stopper is glued a small camel's-hair
brush, which rests in the water, and is meant to
be used for wetting postage stamps, and fasten-
ing them upon letters. The bottom of the neck
ilhscrews at fig. 1, and the part below it is hol-
lowed out like a box, to hold the stamps. The
neck is ornamented in steps. Set the cutter
quite flat, facing the side of the work ; use the
tool No. 5 ; cut one line, move the brass wheel
of the lathe just far enough to make the second
cut join the first, and the same all round. In
the next row make the first cut half way between
the others; thus, if you have begun at the
numbers 1, 6, 12, in the second row begin at 3,
then go to 9, then to 15, and so on. Every
row of steps begins half way through the former
ones, and for each row move the cutter on the
slide rest the breadth of the tool. The convex

moulding at the bottom of the neck is done by
putting one of the hollow tools of the sliding
rest into a handle, and rounding the ornament
with it. The other patterns are all done with
the same cutter, by placing the tools at different
angles. In the same plate, 9, the two patterns
F and G are very beautiful, they are worked
witli the eccentric cutter. f resembles the
scales of fish lying one over another : put the
most angular tool. No, 5 (of the cutter tools),
into the cutter ; describe a circle from the edge
of the middle line to the outer one ; cut one
circle very deep, move ten numbers on the brass
wheel of the lathe, and so on to the end.

The pattern, c, is worked exactly the same,
only a less angular tool. No. 4, is used, and
fewer numbers are counted ; it resembles leaves,
one lying over the other.

The stopper of the bottle, b, is also orna-

THE HANDBOOK OF 1

mented with this cutter, and with an aagular
tool. First turn the stopper quite circular, (the
knob at the top must be glued in afterwards.) >
Set the sliding rest at a convenient distance,
and place under it one of the slide rest tools,
so as to raise it in an uneven manner ; screw
the rest firmly, and set the circle just large
enough to encircle half the stopper. By this
means the tool cuts the under part of the
circle, and passes over the other half; this pat- I
tern must be cut very deep, and about five
numbers be counted between each cut on the
brass wheel of the lathe.

D is another pattern for a stopper; it is
worked with a round-ended drill. Cut the holes
rather deep, and as near as you can to one
another, only leaving a very little thin shell of |
ivory between them, and the pattern will re-
semble a honeycomb. The lighter case, E, is

THE HAKDBOOK OF TURNING.

inted with the drill and vertical cutter.
Turn the upper part very thin, then drill long
lines quite through the ivorvi leaving a space
between each; this looks light and elegant, if
lined with coloured paper. The base is cut in
steps witli the vertical cutter; count twenty for
each cut ; the second row, make each cut be-
tween the former ones, moving for each row the
breadth of the tool. The top is cut out in
leaves with the drill tool No. 8.

To sharpen all these tools, use the goneometer,
taking care that you 6x it exactly at the proper
angle, by counting the position by the numbers.
If you do not place the tool just at the right
angle, it will cut the patterns quite crooked.

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNIKG.

ECCENTRIC CHUCK..

" The centre mov'd — a circle straight aucceeda ;
Another still, and eIIH another spreads."

Peiiiaps the most useful of all the additio
to the lathe is this chuck, for by its aid the
turner can alter the centre of his work as he
pleases, producing a great variety of circular
lines of different sizes, and other ornaments,
which cannot be attempted without it. The J
tools are those already described belonging ta J
the slide rest, which latter, when used with this J
chuck, assumes quite a different character than I
when employed with the eccentric and universal |
cutters and the drill. With these three,
merely serves to mark, by aid of its screw, the
distance diey require to be from the work, and ]
the position in which they are to be placed, but. I
does not assist in the size or form of the pat- ■

OF TURNING.

terns to \k cut ; with the eccentric chuck, how-
ever, it is quite different. The rest marks the
size of the circles, while the chuck fixes their
positiim. Thus : suppose you wish to cut a circle,
or series of circles, not as in the pattern No. 1,
plate 6, which begin from the centre and gra-
dually enlarge, but like those in No. 3 ; the slide
rest must be set to tlie proper position, to enable
the tool to cut the requisite circle, and then the
chuck must be screwed down till the tool arrives
opposite the exact place where the pattern is to
be worked. With this chuck the over-head
frame is no longer used ; the brass and fly-
wheels being employed together, as in common
turning, the chuck having a wheel of its own by
which to regulate the patterns. In the annexed
plate, fig. 1 is a front view of the eccentric
chuck ; fig, 2 is the same seen sideways.

A A are two brass plates, with a screw at the

THE HAKDBOOK (

back of ihem, as shewn at v, fig. 2; by this
screw it fastens on to the mandrel of the lathe
Hke a common chuck, a a are so shaped as to
admit of d sliding up and down them, and the
four screws enable the slide to be tightened or
loosened. Down the middle of the chuck is a
screw with a vei-y fine thread ; it is turned
at either end by the square head, 3| and thus d
slides up and down at pleasure, but cannot in
any way get out of its proper position, and
above all can never shake in its bed. e is
a brass wheel divided into 120 teeth, upon
which the distances are calculated, the same
as on the other brass wheel ; in the middle
of it, F, is a screw, the same in size as that
on the mandrel, upon which the chuck that
holds the work must be screwed. The wheel,
E, has a spring screw, which, by turning back
the spring h, enables yoii to move the wheel

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING.

round as many numbers as you wish, and t
steel point, k, marks the one you wish to set 1
at. L is a small wheel with four numbers marki
upon it; by setting it at o, the steel sere
passes from line to line of the wheel e, fi
by turning it one line further, it stops at {
another line, it slops at ^; and a third, at i
thus enabling you to cut your patterns a
and delicate as you like.

The square heads, 3 3, are placed at i
end of the chuck, so that the plate d can 1
verse the whole length, and thus enable yon t
ornament a square or an oblong piece of world
both heads have four numbers marked up(
ihem, by which you regulate the motions of tl
chuck. For instance, when d d is sciewed up"
level with the black line o, the screw f will
he exactly in the centre of the lathe. Now^
suppose the tool in the blide I'est is set to cut H

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING.

very small circle, and you wish, having done
that one, to cut several others of the same size
round it, thus wg^, you must turn the chuck
down one turn by counting the numbers on the |
square head. No. 3 ; and having cut one circle
in the proper place, count as many numbers on
the brass plate, £, as are necessary to make
them fit properly. Should you wish to make a
second row of circles larger than the first, be- J
sides turning down the chuck, you must,
enlarge them, turn the screw of the slide rest onfl>|
turn forwards. All the patterns already given 1
for the eccentric cutter can be done equally I
well with the eccentric chuck, except the border J
pattern in No. 4, which can only be worked by I
the cutter. Patience, calculation, and attention,
will enable you to perform the most beautiful,
minute, and intricate patterns with the eccentric
chuck ; but though I have endeavoured to giv6>1

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING.

many specimens, when printed ihey only in i
slight degree convey an idea of the real beau^
of this kind of turning; the depth of the c
will wholly alter the appearance of a patten
and the same circles cut with another shapi
tool present quite a different appearance ;
however, there is one rule, which must never b
foi^olten — viz., be very careful to make your
wood or v/oxy perfectly smooth, flat, and even,
before attempting to ornament it, or you i
be disappointed by finding that your circles e
cut deep in one part and are scarcely visible il
another ; also, remember to line it, as directs^
when treating of the slide rest, for this ^
much effect to the work.

Pattern 1, plate ii. Begin by the s
Having smoothed and lined your wood, p
double angular tool {No. 4 of the slide
toob) into your rest ; turn the slide screw till

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING.

the tool is exactly in the centre of your work|i
when, if you move the wheel round, you will
Hnd the tool will only cut a dot. The outer
circle is the one with which to commence ; turn

the slide rest screw forwards ten whole turns,
and you will find you have the circle of the
proper size. Now approach the tool to the
wood, cut the circle carefully at first, tilt you
decide on the proper depth for the cuts ; then]
set your screw guides, and proceed as follows.
For the other ten circles, move the eccentric
chuck downwards half a turn, and diminish their
size hy moving the slide rest screw backwards
half a turn, so as to keep the lower part of each
circle in the same place. To have a good effect,
shells should be loell cut up — that is, each circle
should be of a sufficient depth for the edge of
the cut to meet the former one, and thus efface
the lines made in prepsiring the wood. The

lie ^1

»4

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING.

rays from the centre are worked with the drij]
put a fine round-ended tool. No. 3 of the drill
tools, into the drill ; place it in the slide
stop the fly-wheel, arrange the cords, and
the tool with the screw guides to cut very lii
at first. By means of the slide rest screw, pi
the drill forwards, till the tool touches the ouli
edge of the shell ; hold it well up to the work
with the lever ; make the lathe go very quick,
and move the drill on the slide forwards
slowly, by turning the slide rest wheel re
with the key 12 turns forwards, then
same backwards. Move 12 numbers on
eccentric chuck wheel for each of the ot)
middle lines, and cut them as above ; then m<
the slide rest half a turn forwards to shorten
line, and move 1 number on the eccentric chi

drUl

wheel, and cut a line, movii
II turns forwards, by which i

' the slide i
will be equalfl

THE hand:

r TUHNING.

951

shortened at each end. Move to the other side
of the long lines, and do the same. The whole
pattern is done in this manner, counting one fori
every line on the eccentric chuck wheel, andl
gradually shortening them by reducing the
turns of the slide rest. For the third pattern,
which would look better done in dots than in
circles, take away the drill, pul: back the slide
rest tool-box, and take a flat -ended tool ; set it to J
cm a dot about the same size as the circles, j
deep enough to effitce the under lines, so that-l
each dot will look bright and shining. Having^l
cut one, count 2 on the eccentric chuck wheel!
for each of the other 60 ; then screw the chuck 1
downwards 2 turns, so that the next row may I
be just above those already done; cut five dots^.J
counting 2 numbers for each, then pass i
four, and cut five more ; and so on to the end. I
The upper circle is worked precisely the samel

ANDBOOK OF TUBNINi

as the lower one. The outer pattern is done
like the arc patterns in plate 12, counting 5 for
each arc on the eccentric chuck.

The middle pattern is formed of eight shel
with only four lines in each ; but these parts of
shells begin at the centre point, not round it,
as in the former pattern. Use a double angular
tool, screw the tool slide out 10 turns, and the
eccentric chuck doinnwards, tOl the outer
largest circle just touches the centre; cut
circle, move 15 numbers on the eccentric chuck
wheel ; cut another, and continue the same till
the eight are done; then diminish each as di-
rected for the shell, counting 15 for every circle.
The second pattern, of rings one within another,
is worked with the same tool ; set it to the

.1^^

the I
luck I

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING. 97

centre point of the wood, screw it forwards four
turns, then screw the chuck downwards until
you can cut a circle just above the shells ; count
6 numbers on the eccentric chuck wheel for
each of the 20; then diminish your circles by
turning the slide rest screw backwards half a turn ;
do the second row, counting 6 as before, and
the same for the two inner ones. A still
prettier way of doing this pattern is to cut steps
instead of circles. Put a fine flat-ended tool
into the slide, set it to cut a circle the same
circumference as the largest in the pattern ;
then reduce its size as before, and cut the
next deeper, by screwing out the screw guides
a very little ; the third Ls still smaller and
deeper. A little dot should remain in the
middle, standing up as high as the level of the
wood ; to do. this pattern the wood must be
thick, as the steps require a certain depth.

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING.

The outer pattern is done in the same manner '
as that in pattern 1, only the numbers are .

counted differently. ^^^^

FATTEItN 3. ^^1

Count 40 on the eccentric chuck wheel for
each of the three large circles, diminish one turn
of the rest screw, and one turn of the eccentric
chuck. Then diminish the circle two turns of
the rest screw, and lower the eccentric chuck
two turns, and cut a circle every 20 numbers; ,
the others are done the same. For the second
pattern of circles, cut one for every number on
the ecceniric chuck wheel ; then move 1 num-
ber on the eccentric chuck wheel, and move'
the eccentric chuck downwards one turn, and
cut a circle every 15; by moving the cbuck
down, and advancing one number every time, the
circles are made to incline sideways. The outer

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING.

pattern is much the same as in the two (on
ones.

PATTERN 4.

This is a double shell in the centre. Beg
with the large circle, having fixed the eccentric
chuck wheel at No. 120. Having cut one whole
shell, move the wheel to No. 60, and work the
other in the same way. For the circles, keep
the tool in the same place on the slide rest, and
screw the eccentric chuck down two turns to
clear the edge of the shell ; cut oue circle every
12 numbers on the eccentric chuck wheel,
enlarge the circle by moving the slide rest one
turn forwards ; cut the second row, and so on
till the fourth or largest one is done, then dimi-
nish the size for the other two without alter-
ing the chuck, but counting die same. The
white dots are worked out with a flat-ended

100 THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING.

tool, cutting one every six numbers on the eccen-
tric wheel; then move your chuck downwards
three turns, and cut one every 12 ; this done,
move back to the former row to the dot that
comes between the circles, replace the double
angular tool, enlarge your circle, and cut one
every 12 ; screw the chuck downwards three
turns, and proceed the same ; then screw the
chuck upwards one turn and a. half, which will
bring your tool to a level with the middle of the
two former circles; move the eccentric chuck
wheel one number on each side of the former
ones, and the rosette will be finished. The
border is formed of plain circles, omitting 3
numbers every ninth cut,

PATTERN 5.

The middle and second row of circles are t
simple to require explanation. For the clusters

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING.

101-

of rings, begin with the middle row ; cut two, J
a little apart from each other, then one throughi i
tiie middle of them, and so on to the end ; set'
the eccentric chuck wheel to the middl? circle- |
of one of the clusters, and move the eccentric
chuck downwards, till the tool can cut through. 1
the middle of the others, then upwards the
same number of turns. The extra half circle
is made by moving the wheel of the lathe with
the hand, as for the arc patterns, and counting
the numbers on the eccentric chuck wheel, i
between those already formed.

PATTERN 6,

This is merely a circle of shells, worked the
same as in pattern 1 ; only with this difference,
that each circle is done to correspond in each, J
shell, instead of working every one separately,
which would be more tedious; 15 is counted. 1

HANDBOOK OF TURNING.

on the eccentric chuck wheel for each row of
circles. The rays in the middle are done with
the drill, these can also be done without an
eccentric chuck; the numbers must then be
counted on the fly-wheel, which, for this kind
of line work, is kept steady with the stop.

PATTERN 1, PLATE 12.

Cut a small circle, then one every 12 num- I
hers on the eccentric chuck wheel. Move the I
chuck downwards two turns, and the eccentric
chuck wheel 1 number, either backwards or
forwards; if the former, the rows of circles will
incline to the right; if the latter, to the left.
Proceed the same for every row of circles,
always counting twelve between each, and ad-
vancing the chuck 1 number at the beginning o?
every new row.

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING.

Begin with a small circle in the middle, then
turn the eccentric chuck down two turns, and i
cut one every 15. For the other two rows !
proceed the same, lowering the chuck two turns,
and counting 15 for each on the eccentric chuck
wheel. For the chain work, cut a circle every
15 near the edge; then screw the eccentric^
chuck one turn upwards, move I on the eccen-]
trie chuck wheel on each side of the others;'
thus, if the upper row of circles begin at 120,
the second row will hegin at Nos. 1 and 119, j
then at Nos. 14 and 16, and so on; the third I
and fourth rows are the same as the two first ;
and the last is cut between the others.

This and pattern 4 are called arc patterns) 1
and are worked in a different manner. IdI

^04

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING.

plate 4, fig. A, is a drawing of the brass fly-
wheel of the lathe, with the numbers marked
upon it. D is a brass circle half an inch wide,
which is attached to it; and upon which are
marked 144 lines, every 18 of which is de-
scribed by a number, b b are pieces of brass
which, by means of a groove in the edge of the
circle, fit upon two slecl slides that fit into the
groove, and are kept firm by two nuts, which
fix them opposite any number you wish. P is
a long thin piece of steel, which enters by one
end the bed of the lathe, so as always to stand
quite upright, by which means, when the brass
fly-wheel is gently turned with the hand, the
flat end of the stop, p, catches upon the lower
piece of brass, b, and if you reverse the motion
of the fly-wheel, the other piece, B, will rest
upon the stop, so that you will find the wheel
can only turn half or three parts round, just as

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING. 105

you choose to set the stops. These patterns, it
will immediately be seen, are worked with the
hand^ which must guide the wheel slowly up
and down; therefore slip off the cord, and
having arranged a double angular tool in the
slide rest, hold it up to the centre of the work,
put the stop, p, into the hole, w, of the bed of
the lathe, and gently move the wheel till you
find the extent of circle you wish to cut ; fasten
on one slide firmly, then fix the other end of
the arc, and fasten the other slide. This done,
approach the tool carefully to the wood, and
cut the first long arc by moving the fly-wheel
with your left hand as far up and down as the
stop will allow ; then move 20 numbers on the
eccentric chuck wheel for everv one of the other
five arcs, and cut them in the same way. After
these are completed, move one number on the
eccentric chuck wheel and unscrew the upper

106 THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING,

slide, and move it dowa as many lines as you
think fit, in order to shorten the next arc;
count 20, as before, for every other of the 5.
Each row is worked the same, shortening the
arcs and advancing one number on the ecceotric
chuck wheel for each row. Pattern 4, and the
border in pattern 1, plate ii., are all done in the
same manner, only counting differently. A
great variety of arcs can be worked, and have a
very curious effect, but you must be careful^l
cutting them not to let the tool go too det
into the wood or ivory, or it will either e
fast, or else cut j^ged uneven arcs ; ratli
prefer to spend more time over the work,
working the arcs over and over again till 1
proper depth is obtained.

These patterns will enable the learner eas
to discover and invent many othei's, all beautil
when properly and neatly worked.

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING. 107

PATTERN 5.

Cut a circle every 24 numbers of the eccentric
chuck wheel. Lower the chuck one turn, and
cut a circle on each side of the former ones, so
as to form the five knots of threes. The edge is
worked like the arc patterns, making each half
circle meet and join with a dot, cut with a small
flat-ended tool.

PATTERN 6.

For the border cut three circles, one for each
number on the eccentric chuck wheel, then cut
another at 6, 7, and 8, and so on till all are
done. The pattern in the middle needs no ex-
planation.

Plate 13 contains several specimens of eccen-
tric turning. The temple may be made either
of wood or ivory, and be left open, as in the
plate^ or have a coloured card-board case made

108 THE HANDBOOK OF TDBNING.

to fit inside it. The upper and lower parts of
the pillars, six in number, are fluted with a
round-eaded drill, but the middle parts are
worked with the eccentric chuck, and are curious
specimens of its powers. They much resemble
a spiral staircase, and though at first sight they
may appear difficult, yet they are not so when
properly explained. Begin by turning the wood
or ivory perfectly cylindrical with the slide rest
tool. This done, screw your eccentric chuck
one turn downwards, and turn the screw of your
rest one turn forwards, moving 12 numbers on
the eccentric chuck wheel for every step- As
this requires great nicety, delicacy, and care,
(the cuts being very deep,) you must no longer
depend upon the lever to approach the tool
(which is No. 1 of the slide rest tools) to the
work; insEeadof using it, screw one of the screws,
L, at the end of tlie tool slider, to ihe deepest

HANDBOOK OF TURNING.

109 J

cut, and leave it so ; then, as you push the toolv
against the wood, gently unscrew the other!
screw, L, till the first one prevents its cuttingi
any deeper. For every step, move exactly the!
breadth of the tool. IF the piece you are work-1
ing is thin and long, it will be necessary to
the back puppet; in which case remember to
draw it away from the wood at every change of
movement; for, of course, when the eccentric
chuck is altered, the centre of the work becomes I
altered also. Nos. 1 and 2 of plate 13 arel
different patterns for pillars, both woi-ked wtVA-l
out the eccentric chuck. The depth of the cuts,
it will immediately be seen, form the steps. I
The rings now demand our attention ; the tool J
used for forming them is No. 6 of the slide rest I
tools, plate 5 ; one side of the tool cuts the J
outer ; the other, the inner part of the rings.
Put the tool into a handle, where it must be |

110 THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING.

held firm by a screw ; the same handle will be
very useful to hold the slide rest tools for
making mouldings and delicate ornaments.
The end of the ring tool, No. 6, being very
sharp, cuts a road for itself into the wood or
ivory, then press it gently to the left, till you
find one half of the ring is formed, which will
be seen by its filling up the half circle of the
tool; then remove the tool to the outside of the
work, and press the other side against it till the
ring falls of. It is a good way to turn a small
cup and line it with velvet, or some soft article,
into which to allow the rings to fall, as the deli-
cate ones would be apt to split by striking
against the steel bed of the lathe. To form the
chain, cut the rings carefully through on one
side with a sharp penknife, and slip them one
through the other. The handles of the temple
are large rings, the pins they hang upon are of

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING. Ill

wood. Flatten the knob either with a file or a
small saw, and drill a hole through it to receive
the ring ; the pin is then glued into the mould-
ing.

The ball at the top is turned quite round,
and may be ornamented with the circular rest.
The ball pendant from the chain is circular,
except on one side, where a small pin is left,
through which drill a hole and slip the ring
through it. All the ornaments, pillars, and
ilutings, may be made of separate small pieces
of ivory, which, when worked, are easily fastened
together by a strong cement made of isinglass
melted in gin. The top of the temple may be
worked with the universal cutter, or the drill,
and the feet are turned quite round, and then
ornamented with the eccentric cutter, as directed
for the stopper of the bottle, b, plate 9. The
needle-case, £, in plate 13, is also a specimen of

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING.

curious turning ; the whole thing should be
of ivory, or else the twists of ivory, and the
pillar in the middle of cocos, or some dark wood.
Turn the ivory perfectly cylindrical, and hollow
it very carefully ; this done, throw your eccen-
tric chuck four times outwards, the screw of the
sliding rest one turn downwards, and the eccen-
tric chuck wheel four numbers for each plate.
The other twists are each worked exactly the
same, and they must have a small pin left at
either end, which is glued into the moulding.
When your centre pillar is hollowed, fit
twists to it.

Another method for working this patter
with the aid of the drill, and by this means the
twists are in the same piece of ivory as the
pillar. Having formed a smooth cylinder,
hollowed it out and made (he screws, take yoi
largest fiat-ended drill, and drill fifteen b(

1 ts I

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING.

iiy

round the pillar, or one at every eighth number
of the eccentric chuck wheel. Your ivory must
be very thick, to eaable the tool to cut very
deep. Having cut one row of holes, slowly
and carefully, you must move the sliding rest
forward two turns, then cut another hole every
eighth number again ; do a third circle the same,
moving the chuck and slide the same every I
time. Now examine your work, and see whether
the twists begin to appear. They should, as in
the plate, be quite separate from the ivory tube
in the middle, being only joined at the top and
bottom. For this no exact rule can be given,
as it depends on the circumference of the work ;
if very large, the toot must cut very deep to '
detach it; but, after trying two or three times
by these directions, it will be found quite easy.
As the ivory twists are, of course, very delicate,
and the least jar in working is apt to break, do

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING.

not use the lever, but employ the screw guides,
as directed for the spiral luining. Ijine the
ivory before beginning the twists, and leave
about half an inch at each end, which you can
ornament with the cutter ; this gives strength to
the work. For the same reason, it is advisable
to cut one piece of yoitr ivory longer than the
other ; on the shorter one make the outside
screw, and below it about half an inch of orna-
ment ; on the other make the inside screw, and
work it with the cutter to correspond with the
other part, quite beyond where the screw ex-
tends. When screwed together, it will not be
perceived that the two pieces are not even ; and
as the part where the inner screw is worked is,
of course, thin, you would have no thickness for
the spiral pattern. When one end is finished,
put a fine double angular tool into your cutter,
and very carefully cut some circles at regular

THE HANDBOOK OF TUENING.

115

distances between the twists; this adds much to
the curious effect of the patterns : to do itj work
baciiwards, counting the same numbers on the
chuck wheel and on the sliding rest as for the
twists.

Patterns that are not cut deep can have the
impression taken off on paper, either by slightly
rubbing the wood over with printers' ink, and
laying upon it silver paper, which must be
pressed down upon it ; or by laying the paper
on the wood, and rubbing it well with a piece of
lead melted into the shape of a pencil. Patterns
on ivory also look very well by rubbing a little
printers' ink well over them till the lines are full
of it, then wipe off the superfluous ink from the
surface, and the design will be black on a white
ground.

An immense variety of most beautiful and
intricate patterns are worked with the eccentric

OF TURNING.

cutter, in conjunction with the eccentric chuck;
indeed, many of those formerly supposed to be
only done with the double eccentric chuck,
invented by Mr. Ibbetsun, can be worked by
these two when used together, but they require
much patience, and knowledge of the powers of
the eccentric chuck, to enable the learner to use
them properly. When the eccentric cutter is
used, always set the tool exactly in the centre of
the work, at its lowest degree, before you begin
any pattern, or you will never be quite sure
that your work is done straight ; wlien once you
have settled the centre, the patterns will diverge
regularly and evenly from it. In the patterns
we are going to describe, the slide rest iixes the
position of the tool ; the chuck must be screwed
down to ihe proper situation to meet it, and the
cutter tool must (hen be screwed out to cut^

reqi

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING. Il7

PATTERN 1, PLATE 14.

This pattero is formed of four groups of
circles, containiog seven in each. Your wood
being perfectly smoothed and lined, set the
cutter tool (a double angular one) at its lowest
degree, exacdy in the centre of the work, so
that if moved it would only cut a dot. Unscrew
it eight oi' ten turns to make a large circle, then
by impelling the cutter box forwards with the
slide rest screw, fix it so that the tool cuts the
circle a little aver the centre: arrange your
screw guides : having cut one circle, count
30 on the eccentric chuck wheel, and the same
for the other two. It will be observed that
these four groups go in straight lines, each to-
wards the edge of the work ; to perform this, •
in the six following rows of circles, move the
slide rest forwards half a turn, and the small

118 THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING.

wheel of the eccentric chuck half a turn upward
for each row of four circles, counting 30,
before, till the twenty-eight are all done.

PATTEHN 2.

Arrange the circle a little smaller than I
pattern 1, and on a level with the centre point o
the work. Set the chuck wheel at 120, cut a
circle; then one at 15, 30, 45, 60, 75, 90, 105,
when you will find the eight outer circles of the
pattern are formed. Then move the slide rest
screw forwards four numbers, and to No. Is
the eccentric chuck wheel ; then to Nos.
31,44—61,74—91, 104. By following the same
rule in the other circles you will find the pat-
tern is not difficult, though at first it may appear
very intricate. As all depends upon properly
counting the numbers on the eccentric chuck
wheel, to make the ciilculation more ea'iy, I give

Ill

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING. 119

the proper numbers for the sixteen circles com-
posing one cluster, and you will then see that
the others can readily be done the same, always
remembering to move the slide rest screw for-
wards four numbers for every row ; 1, 15 — 2,
14—3, 13—4, 12— 5, 11— 6, 10—7,9—8; the
latter single number forms the centre or outer
circle near the edge.

PATTERN 3.

This pattern requires great attention and
care to work it properly. Having arranged the
cutter tool, screw it out four turns to make the
circle the proper size, then move the cutter to
the edge of the work, cut a circle at Nos. 120,
40, and 80, on the eccentric chuck wheel, then
set the wheel at 20, and leave it fixed. Your
next operation must be to screw down the
eccentric chuck, and alter the position of the

THE HANDBOOK OF :

tool on the slide rest, till, by laying your liand
on the fly-wheel and moving it gently, the tool
of the cutter appears to describe a half circle
across the wood, in the same way as for the arc
patterns. Having arranged the first arc, move
40, as before, and see whether the second will
exactly meet it, then the third ; tbey should
each diverge from the centre of the first circles
which were cut round the edge; if they do not
exactly fit, move the chuck up and down, and
the slide rest screw backwards or forwards, till
you find the exact position ; as, however, the
arc is difficult to settle, the line being of course
an imaginary one, as the tool must not touch
the wood, it is a good way to cut a piece of
pencil to fit like the tool into a box, and with it
mark the arcs, they will easily rub out, and thus
you will be able to be more certain of your
proper distance and position. The next thing

NDBOOK OF TURNING.

121

is, to see on the fly-wheel of the lalhe how many j
numbers are required to form the arc ; thus, if '
it begins, as the one I have worked did, at 360
of the brass wheel, and ended at 85, stop the
wheel at the former number, eut a circle, then
1 at every fifth number on the same wheel, till
you arrive at 85 ; then move forty numbers on
the eccentric chuck wheel, and do the other arc
the same ; then the third one,

PATTERN 4.

The arc pattern is first worked, arrange it as j
directed for pattern 3, and mark the outline with I
a pencil; in this, the arc began at 280 of the I
fly-wheel, and ended at 168, making in all llfi j
numbers; to divide 58 for each half of the arc, .|
divide them thus— 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 3, 4j
then count back 4, 3, 10, 9, 8, 7, 6, 5, 4. You !
wilt see that the numbers increase 1 every time

122

THE HANDBOOK OF 1

or for every circle, which also is enlarged one
notch for each. Having made the three arcs
fit by marking their position with the pencil in
the cutter box, cut a very small circle at 280,
enlarge one notch, count 5, cut another, en-
large a notch, count 6, and so on till you have
counted, in all, 49 numbers ; do not enlarge the
circle, but cut one, counting three numbers, then
4, which will be the middle, then 4 again, then
3, then !0; after 10 decrease the circle one
notch for every cut, and count backwards 9, 3,
7, 6, 5, 4. The other three arcs are done the
same, by counting 40 for each on the eccentric
chuck wheel ; for each of the crowns cut five
circles just above the arc, by counting one num-
ber for each circle on the eccentric chuck wheel,
then lower the chuck one number, and cut the
same circles again through the others ; lower it
half a turn more, and cut two circles ; then half

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING.

a Itirn again, and cut one circle above h
Iween the last two.

Set the cutter to the middle, enlarge the circl)
four turns ; then turn the slide rest screw t
numbers to the right, cut one circle, and for each
of the other eleven, screw the chuck down one
turn, then return to the middle and cut eleven
the other way. When 23 ai'e finished, screw
the slide rest to the left four numbers, and cut
23 more exactly in the same manner. T<
work the side patterns begin by that on tl
right, set the cutter to the middle of the worl
unscrew it two turns, move the cutter sli(
twelve turns to the right on the slide rest, cut
the middle circle, enlarge one number of the
cutler, lower the eccentric chuck one turn, and
to keep the outside of the circles in a straight

cut^^_

124

OK OF TURNING.

line move the screw of the slide rest inwards half
a number : proceed the same till the nice circles
are cut, then return to the middle circle by
counting back nine turns of the eccentric chuck,
nine numbers of the cutter, and four and a half
numbers on the slide rest ; proceed exactly in
the same way to cut the other eight circles> only
raising instead of lowering the eccentric chuck
one turn for each circle. The opposite pattern is
worked the same, only taking care to turn the slide
rest screw outwards the half turn for every circle,
or the straight pattern will come contrary.

In all these straight patterns take great care
that the 6y-wheel is stopped in such a manner
that the eccentric chuck stands perfectly up-
right; to do thiS) hold the t square against one
side, and make a mark on the brass wheel for
the stop to enter- When you are quite sure
that the chuck inclioes neither to the right nor

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING. 125

the left, drill a small hole in the wheel suffici-
ently deep for the stop to hold it quite firm.
You will then find your patterns will always
come straight.

PATTERN 6.

Set the cutter to the centre, enlarge the circle
six turns^ cut one, diminish one number on the
cutter for each of the other eight circles, and
move the eccentric chuck downwards one turn
for each. Count back to the middle circle, and
work the other eight the same. The side pat-
terns are done much like those in pattern 5,
only the large circle is in the middle, and the
straight lines incline inwards.

PATTERN 7.

Set the cutter to the middle of the circle,
enlarge it two turns and a half, cut a circle in

126

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING.

the middle, turn the chuck down two turns, so
as to cut another a. little into the former ones ;
continue the same till the seven are done ; re-
turn to the middle circle, and cut the other six
in the same line, by screwing the eccentric chuck
upwards instead of downwards. When the thir-
teen are completed, lower the chuck one turn,
and screw the slide rest outwards (ifdoing the
lines to the right) two turns, cut a circle, then
move the eccentric chuck downwards as before,
till the second line of circles are cut, each line
diminishing one turn of the eccentric chuck
the top and bottom.

FATTEHN 8.

Set the cutter to the middle, enlarge it two
turns, turn the slide rest outwards twelve turns,
cut a circle near the edge; count 20 on the
eccentric chuck wheel, cut another, tlien 5

ine I

wo I

: OF TURNING.

127 I

more, each distant twenty numbers from each |
other. To make the circles join in straight 1
lines, screw the eccentric chuck downwards two
turns for every one ; when the outside pattern is
done, return to the middle circle, and cut the i
other hnes the same.

^L PATTERN 9.

^» Square patterns require great care in working
them. First saw the wood perfectly square ;
then, when on the lathe, take the t square ; hold
the ilat edge firm on the bed of the lathe, and
the handle against one side of the wood, till both
are even, then fix the wheel of the eccentric ■
chnck to that number. Having with tlie cutter A
worked one row of patterns, move the chuck 30
numbers, which, if the wood is quite square,
will enable you to do the second row ; then 30-1
more for the third side, and 30 for the last.

128 THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING.

We are told, that French and Itab'an turners
often line boxes with the peel of the Bergamot
orange ; they cut a circle through the peel, and
carefully strip it off in two quarters, turning the
inside out, and drying them ; the scent is very
powerful ; of course they can only line globular
boxes the size of themselves.

TO LINE WOODEN BOXES WITH TORTOISE-SHELL.

As many of my readers may wish to line their
snuff-boxes with tortoise-shell, I think it needful
to give some instructions in the best method of
doing it. Cut the shell into very thin leaves
with a sharp fine saw, then divide these into the
size you wish for the inside of the snuff-box,
leaving a very little extra for the joint. Take
a new rough file, and scrape away a little of the

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING.

129

two ends of the narrow strip of shell, so that they
can lay one upon another, and fit so closely that
the aperture is hardly perceptible. Plunge the
tortoise-shell into warm water for a few minutes,
and it will become qnite soft. Have ready on
the lathe a piece of wood a little less in circum-
ference than the inside of the box, and perfectly
round and smooth. While the shell is soft,
place the joints together, wrap a wet piece of
linen tightly over them to hold them fast, and 1
press them firmly together with the finger and I
thumb. Then heat a pair of tongs to a proper I
heat (which is known by trying them on writing |
paper ; if they brown it, they are too hot; if they 1
only turn it yellow, they are right), and with I
them compress the joint of the tortoise-shell.
The water, the heat, and the pressure united,
will make the two parts join firmly. When
finished thus far, file away any roughness that I

180

THE HANDBOOK OF 1

may remain, and steep the shell in hot water
till quite soft, then slip it upon the piece of
wood before mentioned, and see if it fits it per-
fectly, if not, try with pressure to give it the
requisite shape, and if this does not succeed,
take the wood out of the lathe, leaving the
tortoise-shell upon it, and hold them over a
brazier, turning them frequently and quickly
between the hands, that the heat may equally
penetrate all the parts i then strike the side that
bulged out with a mallet, and with a little care
it will soon assume the required form. You
may finish it on the lathe, observing only to
place it so that the tool does not catch the lap
of the joint, which might cause it to open j and
when you take it off, plunge it in cold water to
make it retain its form.

THE HANDBl

, OF TURNING.

TO FINISH THE SNUFF-BOX.

Make your box and lid uf hard, well-seasoned
wood ; hollow them out, and polish the insides,
only omitting to cut the lip upon which the lid
fits, and which will be formed by the tortoise-
shell. As you hollow out the box and lid, keep
fitting in the shell, that you may not make ihem
too large ; when it slips in rather light, lake a
point tool and cut some circles on the inside of
each, (this is done to enable the glue to hold
iirmly.) Now, take the tortoise-shell and file
that part that is to be cemented to the box, so
as to make it rough. Take a pair of compasses,
in one end of which is a sharp knife, set them
lo the exact size of the inside of the bottom and I
lid, then place them on a piece of tortoise-shell,
and cut out the two round pieces. Melt some '
glue till rather liquid, thicken it with vermil

132 THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING.

lay a coat on the inside of the top and bottom
of the box, and press in the two circles of tor-
toise-shell ; in the same manner glue in the
sides, leaving the lip (upon which the lid is to
fit) standing up above the bottom part of the
box. Leave the glue to harden for a day, then
replace the work on the lathe, turn the inside
quite even, and polish it with pounce powder
and oil, then with tripoli powder and water.
Should the lid, when finished, become too small
for the box, dip it for a minute in boiling water,
fit it on to a piece of wood the exact size, and
leave it there to harden.

HORN TO IMITATE TORTOISE-SHELL.

Dissolve three ounces of potass in a pint of
boiling water. Let it boil for a quarter of an
hour, then pour it into a basin capable of hold-

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING. 133

ing about as much again, and in which you have
put half a pound of quick lime, stir it well, and
when the latter is slacked^ add three ounces of
red lead and one ounce of vermilion.

When the whole is of the consistency of thick
soup, dip a thin pointed stick into it, and lay
the drops it will take up upon a piece of horn
in those parts required to be coloured, leaving
those that are to be transparent. When quite
dry, clean the whole with a wet sponge, and you
will find it will greatly resemble tortoise-shell.

MASTIC USED IN TURNING IVORY VERY THIN.

To turn ivory as thin as writing paper, so as
to render it quite transparent, is very difficult
to accomplish, but is much admired when done,
and shews the skill of the artist. To enable
the ivory to bear the action of the tool without

1;34

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING.

splitting, the following mastic has been found
very useful, both for strengthening it and for
giving a deep colouring, by which means the
thinness is more perceptible. Some turners
wet the ivory for the latter purpose, but as when
wet it is quite transparent, and thickens again
when dry, the mastic will be found much pre-
ferable.

Take some lamp or ivory black in powder,
and strain it through a fine sieve, so as only tu
retain the finest parts. Steep these in water to
free them from any impurities. After laying in
it for a few minutes, pour off the water, and
make some glue very hot ; mix it with the lamp
black till of the consistency of oil paint. This
mastic must be kept warm near the fire, and
when you have sufficiently hollowed out the
vase, or whatever you wish to turn, very thin,
shape the outside a little; then dip a large

THE HANDBOOK (

catnel's-bitir brush in the warm varnish and lay
a thick coat all over the inside ; let this dry, put
on another, and repeat the process till sufficient
strength is obtained. You may now, without
fear or danger, work your ivory as thin as pos-
sible, and ornament it with the cutters and drill.
Without this mastic it would not, when trans-
parent, bear the force of these tools.

When the work is all finished and carefully
polished, take it off the lathe, and put it in s
basin filled with warm water. After a few mi-
nutes' immersion, take it out, and plunge it in
clean water, shaking it gently. This will make
the mastic dissolve and leave the ivory. Renew
the warm water frequently, as leaving it in the
blackened liquid might injure the colour of the
work.

136 THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING.

BEAUTIFUL VARMISH FOR WOOD, TO BE USED]
WHILE THE WORK IS ON THE LATHE.

To one quart of spirits of wine add four ou
of lacker, three ounces of gum benzoin, one
drachm of camphor, half a drachm of sandarac,
half a drachm of dragon's blood, one drachm of
turpentine. Put these ingredients in a long-
necked bottle capable of holding two quarts, and
tie a piece of wet parchment over the neck ;
when dry, pierce it with holes with a large pin.
Place the bottle in the bain viaree till the con-
tents are perfectly dissolved, shaking it fre-
quently. When cold, strain the liquid through
a piece of coarse muslin, and keep it well corked
for future use.

Having finished and polished your work witli
tripoli powder and sand-paper, wipe the wood
quite clean with a piece of fine linen. This

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING. 187

done, put a few drops of the varnish on a bit of
cotton wool, and one drop of olive oil, to pre-
vent its drying too quickly ; while applying this
varnish, make the lathe wheel go very quick,
and hold the cotton close to the work.

To polish the above, when the varnish is
perfectly dry, take some finely-powdered whiting
or chalk, and with it polish the work in every
direction, but be careful not to press too strongly
on the varnish, or it will be marked ; and do not
rub it for more than a few minutes at a time, as
the friction and excessive speed and heat will
spoil the polish. When done, take a sponge
dipped in water, wash the work well, and then
rub it with a piece of fine linen, and a drop or
two of olive oil ; lastly, clean it with a bit of soft
old rag or leather.

NDBOOK OF TURNINQ.

TIRSERS CEMENT.

Sometimes the workman is too much hurried
to wait till the work can be glued upon the
chuck : the following cement will be found
nsefiil. Take two pounds of Burgundy pitch,
one pound of rosin, one pound of colophoninm,
two ounces of yellow wax, and one ball of
whiting. Melt all, except the latter, in an
earthen pot, over a slow fire. When it begins
to bubble, stir it well with a stick to prevent its
passing the edge of the pot, and when
quite melted take it ofF the fire. Add
whiting, finely powdered, little by little,
ring it in well till the contents are perfe
mixed. Replace the pot on the fire, still stirring
it ; and after a few minutes, pour all the cement
quickly into a tub or basin of cold water for
About a minute. Then take it out, and knead

begins

nt itBll

THE UA^DBOOK OF TURNII

it well with the hands, Roll it into sticks upon I
a smooth stone, and plunge theni into cold water i
to harden. The strength and goodness of this
cement depends greatly upon its being made as
rapidly as possible. To use it, melt the end of
one of the sticks by putting It near the fire; rub
it on the chuck ; wlien you think there is suffi-
cient cement laid upon it, heat the bit of wood
or ivory you wish to unite to it, and the warmth
wii! make it adhere firmly.

Another cement, that is preferable for using ]
in cold weather, is made by adding two pounds
of Burgundy pitch, two ounces of yellow wax,
and two pounds of Spanish white. These are
melted together, rolled into sticks, and used as
above ; one stroke of a mallet will detach the I
work from the chuck when joined with this I
cement.

NDBOOK OF TURNING.

NEW AND VALUABLE RECIPE FOU T

IMPRESSIONS FROM TURNINtf

Take a sheet of rice-paper, paste it upon
letter-paper with flour paste, which must be
mixed as smootli as possible, and laid on very
thin. Leave it till quite dry, then lay the rice-
paper thus backed upon the piece of Turning,
and with the thumb nail or a piece of cloth rub
the back of the paper, pressing it gently so as to
make it enter into all the deep, fine cuts of the
Turning. The impression will be beautiful, and
have the appearance of a raised medallion. Ii
is invaluable for taking off patterns from ivory,
as it can in no way injure the colour or delicacy
of the work ; and from the facility of bending
the paper, impressions can as easily be taken
from round articles (as tlie sides of a box or

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING, 141

pillar) as from flat ones. The medallions may
be left white, or the pattern coloured with water
colours, leaving the ground white; and they
can, besides their utility as patterns to which to
refer, be employed in ornamenting various useful
articles.

In turning the pillars in the temple, pi. 13,
great inconvenience and trouble has been found
in working them, for want of the support of
the puppet G, plate i ; for as in each step the
eccentric chuck has to be slightly altered, the
point, J, of the puppet, when the work is moved,
is apt to slide back into the hole it first formed,
thus making the steps quite crooked. To ob-
viate this difficulty, I should advise my readers
to use the following simple contrivance. Take
out the point, j, and replace it by a piece of

142 THE HANRBOOK OF TURNIN

wood turned to fit exactly ioto the tube, and on
the end of which is left a circular piece the size
of a half-crown. Take another bit of wood, of
the diameter of your pillar; fix a short nail into
the middle of it; glue the other side to the
pillar, put it on the lathe, screw up the puppet
G, and you will find the nail will always, when-
ever you move the chuck, firmly fix itself into
the wooden end which replaces the point j

And now, having, I trust with
clearness, explained the practical and orna-
mental parts of concentric and eccentric turn-
ing, I will lake leave of my readeus, only adding
that, if they wish to attain perfection in this
interesting art, they must patiently continue
their exertions, for experience and industry will

■na-^^n

THE HANDBOOK OF TURNING. 143

alone enable them to avoid many faults, and
discover the real cause of many failures ; and to
those who may feel disheartened with repeated
disappointments, I will say —

" Courage ! try thy chance once more."

Let me also observe to those who cannot
afford to purchase much expensive machinery,
that with care, patience, and perseverance, the
common tools may be made to work a great
variety of very beautiful articles; and if they
will also keep in mind the old-fashioned but true
saying, " that whatever is worth learning at all,
is worth learning well ;" they will, I have no
doubt, soon become proficients in an art that has
been admired and practised for centuries.

T. C. Savill, Printer, 107, St. Martin's Lane.

DIRECTIONS FOR THE BINDER.

Head done in the Lathe . . Opposite to the TitU-pcige,
Plate 1 to fece p. 2

2 " 16

3 " 50

4 " 58

5 " 64

6 ; also Table of Numbers .... " 68

7 " 72

. 8 " 78

9 " 82

10 " 88

11 " 96

12 "104

13 "110

14 "118

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